Historical  guide  to  Chattanoo  -a 
and  Lookout  Llountain. 


George  0.   Connor 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 

LOS  ANGELES 


CONNORS  GUIDE 


TO 


HISTORICAL  GUIDE 


TO 


CHATTANOOGA 


AND 


LOOKOUT    MOUNTAIN, 


DESCRIPTIONS   OF  THE   BATTLES,   BATTLE-FIELDS,   CLIMATE, 
INDUSTRIES,   MINERALS,  TIMBER,   ETC. 


PROFUSELY  ILLUSTRATED. 


BY 

GEORGE  C.  CONNOR, 

FOB  NEARLY  TWENTY  YEARS  A  RESIDENT 
OF  THE  CITY. 


1889 


/-444 


TO  THE  STRANGER. 


uj        In  the  preparation  of  this  Guide  to  Chattanooga  and  its  Environs,  the  &uthor 

M 

^_    has  been  animated  by  one  desire  above  all  others — To  tell  the  truth  !    This  he 

*    has  tried  to  do  to  the  best  of  his  ability,  avoiding  the  language  of  exaggeration, 
ae 
i    so  common  in  publications  of  this  class. 

Strangers  visiting  this  city  may  rely  upon  the  information  given  herein.     "We 

have  gathered  it  with  great  care,  and  have  winnowed  the  facts.     It  has  been  a 
ot 
h   labor  of  love,  and  conscientious  earnestness.     Sincerely  desiring  a  solid,  con- 

<M   servative  and  permanent  growth  for  the  city  that  contains  our  home,  we  have 
z    carefully  rejected  all  statements  that  tended  to  mislead  the  enquirer. 

This  GUIDE  is  a  private  venture  of  the  author.     It  contains  no  advertise- 
ments, no  puffs,  no  unmerited  commendations.     "We  have  written  without  em- 
barrassment, being  under  obligations  to  no  one.     At  first  we  offered  to  insert 
'      certain  cuts  free  of  charge,  but  as  soon  as  the  owners  began  to  feel  that  they 
»      were  doing  us  favors  we  abandoned  the  intention.     "We  are,  therefore,  indebted 
for  patronage  or  favors  to  no  one. 

This  much  is  due  the  stranger  and  the  author.  The  Guide  is  now  submitted 
to  the  consideration  of  those  who  may  desire  to  know  and  understand  Chatta- 
nooga. 

(6) 


447932 


CHATTANOOGA. 


On  the  southern  bank  of  the  Tennessee  River,  in  Hamilton  County,  Tennesk 
Bee,  at  the  mouth  of  a  valley  formed  by  Missionary  Ridge  on  the  east  and  Look- 
out Mountain  on  the  west,  nestles  the  city  of  Chattanooga,  famous  as  "Rosa* 
Landing "  when  the  Cherokees  inhabited  the  surrounding  mountains,  and  with 
its  present  name  in  the  annals  of.  the  late  "War  Between  the  States. 

The  city  lies  in  a  basin,  with  mountain  walls  so  securely  protecting  it  that  its 
fruit  seasons  are  equal  to  those  of  "West  Point,  Georgia,  a  point  fully  150  rnileg 
farther  south  ;  fully  four  weeks  in  advance  of  Cincinnati,  and  nearly  two  weeks 
in  advance  of  Nashville  and  Knoxville. 

Rising  1,700  feet  above  the  beautiful  Tennessee  River,  that  for  miles-laves  the 
streets  of  the  city,  world-famed  Lookout  Mountain  lifts  its  hoary  head,  its 
"point"  of  sheer  and  solid  rock,  standing  out  like  a  mighty  sentinel  to  guard 
against  the  approach  of  evil  influences  to  the  pretty  valleys  on  either  side.  Be- 
yond the  river  are  Raccoon  Mountain  and  "Walden's  Ridge,  and  through  the 
chasm  which  separates  these  the  Tennessee  flows  out  reluctantly  from  the  valley 
in  which  it  has  lingered  to  plunge  through  the  mountains  that  separate  us  from 
Sequachee.  On  this  side  the  river  is  the  abrupt  elevation  known  as  Cameron 
Hill,  bedecked  with  cottages,  and  around  its  base  spreads  out  the  giant  city,  with 
broad  avenues  that  are  reasonably  well  shaded,  with  its  tall  spires  on  house? 
dedicated  to  the  worship  of  God,  its  busy  and  crowded  thoroughfares,  its  out- 
reaching  arms  of  steel  on  which  trains  are  darting  hither  and  thither,  its  numer- 
ous factories  whose  smoke  hangs  over  them  like  a  veil,  and  its  pretty  houses 
perched  upon  the  eminences  that  range  around  the  business  quarter. 

Chattanooga  is  peculiarly  located.  It  stands  at  the  apex  of  an  inverted  tri- 
angle, whose  diverging  lines  extend  into  the  far  northeast  and  northwest.  The 
mountain  walls  ward  off  the  colder  blasts  of  winter,  while  they  form  a  funnel 
through  which  sweep,  from  the  opposite  direction,  the  cooling  breezes  of  summer. 
These  mountains  surrender  their  bosoms  to  early  fruit  raising — peaches,  grapes 
and  strawberries,  and  to  early  vegetables  of  every  name.  There  is  no  city  of 
the  Union  more  attractively  surrounded  by  scenery,  or  one  more  liberally  pro- 
vided with  habitable  mountain  tops. 

And  now,  with  these  few  words  by  way  of  generalization,  let  us  examine 
this  remarkably  prosperous  city  in  detail.  And  first, 

HISTOKICAL. 

The  country  extending  from  the  Little  Tennessee  and  Clinch  Rivers,  on  the 
north,  to  the  Muscle  Shoals  on  the  south,  and  to  the  Chattahoochee  River  on  the 
east,  was  once  inhabited  by  that  most  warlike  tribe  of  the  southern  Indians, 

(7) 


HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  CHATTANOOGA 


CHATTANOOGA   AND  THE  BATTLE  FIELDS. 


AND  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN.  9 

the  Cherokees.  Soon  after  the  settlement  of  the  State  of  Tennessee  this  tribe 
•was  subdued  by  the  white  man,  and  peaceful  relations  were  ever  after  main- 
tained. 

About  the  year  1817,  the  American  Board  of  Commissioners  for  Foreign  Mis- 
sions established  a  missionary  school  for  the  education  of  the  rising  generation 
of  the  Cherokees,  six  miles  east  of  Chattanooga,  on  the  Chickamauga.  They 
called  it  Brainard,  in  memory  of  the  Rev.  David  Brainard,  an  honored  mission- 
ary to  Indians  in  former  years.  In  1819  a  treaty  was  made  with  the  Cherokees, 
whereby  they  ceded  all  that  territory  lying  between  the  Hiawassee  and  Little 
Tennessee  Rivers,  and  all  of  their  lands  lyiug  north  of  the  Tennessee  River,  in- 
cluding that  part  of  Hamilton  County  lying  north  of  that  river. 

In  the  latter  part  of  1835,  another  treaty  was  made  with  these  Cherokees, 
whereby  they  ceded  to  the  United  States  all  the  country  they  owned  east  of  the 
Mississippi  River,  including  portions  of  Georgia,  Alabama  and  Tennessee,  for  a 
tract  of  country  west  of  the  State  of  Arkansas  and  a  bonus  of  five  millions  ol 
dollars.  This  was  called J;he  treaty  of  New  Echota,  and  was  made  by  the  Rev. 
Mr.  Schemerhorn,  on  the  part  of  the  United  States,  and  the  people  of  the  Chero- 
kee Nation,  as  it  was  alleged,  on  the  other  part.  The  great  majority  of  the 
nation,  headed  by  their  chief,  John  Ross,  refused  to  agree  to  the  treaty,  and 
made  strenuous  efforts  to  have  it  abrogated  or  modified ;  but  the  powers  were 
Against  them,  and  they  had  to  yield.  In  the  fall  of  1838  the  last  of  the  race 
bade  farewell  to  their  native  hills  and  set  their  faces  toward  the  setting  sun. 

The  site  of  the  present  city  of  Chattanooga  was  formerly  known  as  Ross' 
Landing,  and  after  the  removal  of  the  Indians  it  soon  assumed  the  proportions 
of  a  trading  town,  being  the  entrepot  for  the  products  of  East  Tennessee,  and 
the  point  from  which  supplies  were  drawn  for  the  new  settlements  of  North 
<5eorgia  and  Eastern  Alabama.  In  1836  it  was  made  a  military  post,  four  com- 
panies of  Tennessee  Volunteers,  in  the  service  of  the  United  States,  being 
stationed  here.  These  were  soon  afterward  relieved  by  a  portion  of  the  regular 
army. 

The  settlement  began  in  1835,  when  there  was  only  a  forest,  and  a  primitive 
ferry  maintained  by  the  Indian  Chief,  John  Ross,  and  in  a  log  hut  a  tavern,  kept 
by  mine  host,  Mr.  Daniel  Henderson.  In  1837  a  post-office  was  established,  with 
John  P.  Long  as  postmaster,  and  the  mail  came  from  Rossville  on  horseback. 
Later  in  the  year  the  establishing  of  the  stage  line  between  Murfreesboro,  Teun., 
and  Augusta,  Ga.,  gave  the  "Landing"  office  more  importance,  and  letters  were 
actually  received  from  "Washington,  D.  C.,  within  ten  days  after  date. 

The  struggles  of  those  early  times  were  with  natural  surroundings  and  white 
depravity,  the  Indians  giving  the  settlers  scarcely  any  trouble  whatever.  The 
Cherokees  were  brave  and  true  to  their  treaties,  and  perhaps  less  treacherous 
than  any  of  the  aboriginal  tribes.  The  few  citizens  who  remain  and  have  mem- 
ories of  those  early  days  tell  us  quaint  stories,  which  lack  of  space  only  forbids 
us  to  relate.  It  may  be  interesting  to  record,  however,  that  necessity  was  never 
more  certainly  the  "mother  of  invention"  than  when  "W.  L.  Dugger,  as  a  lad, 
dragged  the  timber  from  Market  street  to  the  brick  kiln,  on  Mulberry,  with  a 
yoke  of  oxen,  hitched  to  grape-vines  instead  of  to  chains. 


10  HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  CHATTANOOGA 

In  1838,  the  town  was  laid  ont,  when  the  name  Chattanooga  was  selected, 
after  a  lively  contest,  which  occurred  in  the  log  echool-house  that  stood  on  the 
corner  of  Fifth  and  Lookont  streets.  Lookout  City  and  Montevideo  were  the 
names  supported  by  a  minority  of  the  citizens.  The  meaning  of  "  Chattanooga" 
is  unknown.  The  Cherokees  have  a  tradition  that  it  is  the  name  another  race 
gave  to  the  valley,  and  also  to  what  we  call  Lookout  Mountain,  before  they 
came,  and  that  the  Cherokees  adopted  it  without  enquiry  as  to  its  meaning. 

The  boundaries  of  the  town,  as  fixed  in  1838,  were  as  follows:  ,0n  the  east  by 
Georgia  avenue,  and  on  the  west  by  Cameron  hill ;  on  the  north  by  the  Tennes- 
see River,  and  on  the  south  by  what  was  then  James  street,  but  now  known  as 
West  Ninth.  The  land  thus  enclosed  measured  240  acres. 

In  1840,  Market  street  was  surveyed,  and  Tom  Crutchfield,  Sr.,  received  the 
timber  standing  thereon  as  compensation  for  opening  it.  "With  the  timber  thus 
cut  he  burned  the  first  kiln  of  bricks  on  Mulberry  street,  now  known  as  Broad, 
and  began  the  erection  of  two  brick  residences,  one  for  James  A.  Whiteside  and 
the  other  for  Dr.  Milo  Smith. 

The  year  1840  was  one  of  melancholy  memories  to  those  sturdy  pioneers. 
The  Tennessee  River  rose  to  a  great  height  in  the  month  of  June,  and  when  the 
corn  was  in  tassel  overflowed  the  lowlands,  and  destroyed  the  crops.  This  de- 
struction of  vegetation  poisoned  the  air  with  malaria  when  the  waters  receded. 
A  malarial  fever  immediately  broke  out,  and  it  soon  became  epidemic.  Before 
long  there  were  not  enough  healthy  people  to  wait  upon  the  sick. 

Of  those  early  days  there  remain  (1889)  only  William  Crutchfield  and  George 
W.  Snodgiass,  whose  cabin  on  the  battle-field  of  Chickamauga — or  Chick-um-au- 
ga,  as  the  Indians  pronounced  it — has  been  made  famous. 

In  1843  the  Legislature  took  a  vote  on  selecting  Chattanooga  as  the  State 
capital.  It  was  carried  in  the  House,  but  was  lost  in  the  Senate  by  a  majority 
of  two.  The  capital  was  then  fixed  at  Nashville.  In  1852  the  first  City  Council 
was  chosen,  and  Dr.  Milo  Smith  was  elected  Mayor. 

It  may  be  important  to  remember  that  as  early  as  1828  a  steamboat,  called 
the  "Atlas,"  was  run  between  Muscle  Shoals  and  Knoxville,  and  that  in  1831  the 
"Knoxville"  ran  between  the  same  points,  and  went  even  higher  into  East  Ten- 
nessee than  the  city  of  Knoxville. 

Quite  early  in  the  settlement  of  Chattanooga  there  was  regular  communica- 
tion by  river  with  New  Orleans,  except  a  portage  of  forty  miles  around  Muscle 
Shoals,  on  which  a  railroad  had  been  built  and  operated  by  horse  power,  between 
Tuscumbia  and  Dccatur.  By  this  means  Chattanooga  was  enabled  to  supply 
the  northern  counties  of  Georgia  and  Alabama  with  groceries  cheaper  than  from 
any  other  point,  which,  with  her  East  Tennessee  productions,  gave  her  a  com- 
manding and  growing  trade. 

The  first  effort  at  iron  manufacture  was  made  about  the  year  1850.  Mr.  Hol- 
liater,  a  practical  iron  master,  visited  the  place,  made  an  examination  of  the 
ores  and  the  coal,  and  was  pleased  with  the  prospect.  Ho  raised  a  company 
and  the  necessary  capital,  went  North  and  perfected  plans  and  specifications, 
but  on  bis  way  back  took  sick  and  died  at  Charleston.  This  ended  the  enter- 
prise. Shortly  after  this  the  foundry  and  car  works  of  the  East  Tennessee  Iron- 


AND  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN.  11 

Manufacturing  Company  was  established,  which  was  afterward  bought  out  by 
Thomas  Webster.  The  same  company  erected  a  blast  furnace  on  the  river  bank 
near  the  bluff,  which  was  afterward  leased  by  James  Henderson,  of  New  Jersey, 
but  owing  to  the  want  of  skill  and  capital  proved  a  failure.  The  steam  foundry 
of  John  G.  Bynum  was  a  success,  as  was  also  the  pork-packing  establishments 
of  Chandler  &  Co.  and  Joseph  Ramsey.  The  flouring  mill  of  C.  E.  Granville, 
with  a  capacity  of  fifty  barrels  a  day,  and  the  flouring  mill  and  distillery  of 
Bell  <fc  Co.,  with  a  capacity  of  150  barrels  of  flour  and  60  barrels  of  whisky  a 
day,  were  successful  until  destroyed  by  the  war. 

DURING  THE  WAR. 

When  the  unfortunate  civil  war  began  Chattanooga  was  little  more  than  a 
straggling  village,  although  it  had  been  dignified  by  a  Mayor  and  Board  of 
Aldermen  during  the  nine  years  preceding.  Its  citizens  were  divided  on  the 
secession  of  the  State,  and  such  bitterness  as  usually  attends  religious  and  po- 
litical discussions  resulted.  Houses  were  divided  against  themselves. 

After  Shiloh  Chattanooga  received  the  sick  and  wounded  of  the  Confederates, 
and  after  the  Fort  Donelson  defeat  the  importance  of  the  place  from  a  strategic 
standpoint  was  recognized  by  the  Confederate  Government.  Henceforward  it 
was  a  depot  for  supplies.  It  was  attached  and  again  detached  as  different  gen- 
erals came  into  command  of  departments.  But  it  did  not  assume  its  greatest 
importance  until  Bragg's  army  came  from  Tupelo,  Miss.,  and  began  preparations 
for  the  movement  into  Middle  Tennessee  and  Kentucky  in  1862. 

Hospitals  were  scattered  here  and  there,  and  prisoners  were  guarded  until 
exchanged  or  sent  to  other  prisons  farther  south.  The  campaign  of  General 
Kirby  Smith  into  Kentucky  withdrew  attention  from  Chattanooga  until  Bragg's 
retreat  after  Perryville.  When  Bragg  returned  to  Middle  Tennessee  Chatta- 
nooga was  his  base  of  supplies,  and  the  army  and  floating  population  became 
treble  the  number  it  was  at  the  opening  of  the  war. 

During  that  time  the  brilliant  but  erratic  Henry  A.  Waterson,  now  the  editor 
of  the  Louisville  Courier-Journal,  edited  in  this  city  the  "Chattanooga  Rebel,"  a 
daily  paper  without  a  counterpart  in  English  literature ;  a  thorn  in  the  flesh  to 
General  Bragg,  a  tonic  and  delight  to  the  rank  and  file  of  his  army. 

In  the  last  weeks  of  June,  1863,  Rosecrans  made  a  vigorous  movement  on 
the  Confederate  right  flank  which  compelled  Bragg  to  fall  rapidly  back  from 
Shelby  ville  upon  Chattanooga,  the  natural  gateway  from  Tennessee  to  the  At- 
lantic coast.  Rosecrans  halted  at  McMinnville  and  Winchester,  and  awaited 
Bumside's  march  upon  Knoxville.  Bragg  reached  Chattanooga  on  July  7th, 
and  Rosecrans  reached  Bridgeport,  the  railroad  crossing  of  the  Tennessee,  on 
August  29th.  Those  outside  of  the  councils  of  the  army  innocently  supposed 
Chattanooga  could  not  be  captured  by  the  Federals. 

TWO  IMPORTANT  EVENTS. 

One  of  the  most  successful  steps  toward  the  obliteration  of  the  animosities, 
and  the  healing  of  the  wounds  of  the  late  war,  was  taken  by  the  Ladies'  Con- 
federate Memorial  Association  when  they  invited  the  Federal  garrison  of  this 


1J  HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  CHATTANOOOA 

port  to  unite  with  the  veterans  of  the  Confederacy  in  laying  the  corner-stone  of 
the  Monument  to  the  Confederate  Dead. 

It  was  a  charming  sunny  day,  that  10th  of  May,  1877,  when  the  long  proces- 
sion of  Freemasons,  Knights  Templar,  ex- Confederates,  citizens  and  the  Ladies' 
Memorial  Association  moved  down  Market  and  up  Sixth  streets,  en  route  to  the 
Confederate  Cemetery,  led  by  the  baud  of  Col.  Wheaton's  regiment,  TJ.  S.  Army, 
and  Company  C  of  the  same,  commanded  by  Capt.  Cochran.  And  when  that 
United  States  military  band  entered  the  densely  shaded  City  of  the  Dead,  fol- 
lowed by  a  company  of  U.  S.  troops,  with  arms  reversed,  there  was  not  a  dry 
eye  nor  a  disloyal  heart  in  the  vast  throng  assembled  around  the  base  of  the 
monument,  or  in  the  long  procession  that  moved  up  the  avenue.  And  such  a 
procession  at  such  a  time  was  possible  in  Chattanooga  only. 

The  next  important  event  was  of  a  like  character.  The  Society  of  the  Army 
of  the  Cumberland  decided  to  hold  its  annual  reunion  in  the  city  of  Chattanooga 
during  Chickamauga  week,  September  21  and  22,  1881.  The  writer  of  this 
pamphlet  conceived  the  idea,  of  organizing  a  society  of  ex-Confederate  soldiers 
to  extend  a  soldierly  greeting  to  the  Society  of  the  Army  of  the  Cumberland  on 
the  occasion  of  its  visit  to  us.  His  most  sanguine  expectations  were  realized,  a 
large  society  was  organized,  and  ex- Confederates  of  every  grade,  from  general 
to  private,  wrote  letters  of  approval  and  concurrence.  The  society  chose  J.  B. 
Cooke  to  be  president,  D.  M.  Key  and  J.  A.  Caldwell  to  be  vice  presidents.  G.  C. 
Connor  to  be  secretary,  and  "W.  "W.  Jackson  to  be  treasurer.  S.  A.  Key  was 
unanimously  chosen  to  deliver  the  address  of  welcome,  and  by  joint  action  of 
the  local  committee  and  this  society,  Cameron  Hill  was  selected  as  the  most  ap- 
propriate spot  for  the  ceremonies. 

All  arrangements  were  completed  when  the  flash  of  the  telegraph  announced 
"President  Garfield  is  dead."  It  was  nearly  midnight  of  September  19th  when 
the  tolling  bolls  announced  the  awful  calamity.  The  programme  was  in  the 
hands  of  the  printer;  the  buildings  were  rapidly  assuming  their  gay  decorations; 
visitors  were  beginning  to  arrive ;  all  was  bustle  and  expectation.  In  an  instant 
a  cloud  of  gloom  settled  upon  every  heart.  Crape  was  silently  and  tearfully 
pinned  to  the  national  colors.  The  publication  of  the  joyous  programme  was 
suspended,  and  a  call  issued  for  a  joint  conference  at  ten  o'clock  the  following 
day. 

Next  morning  the  assembly  hall  was  filled  with  ex-Confederates  and  Feder- 
als, bowed  with  grief,  and  solicitous  of  doing  nothing  inappropriate  to  the 
solemn  surroundings.  The  Society  of  the  Army  of  the  Cumberland  decided  to 
hold  only  the  briefest  sessions,  and  the  ex- Confederates  proposed  that  the  pro- 
gramme adopted  for  Thursday  be  carried  out  on  Cameron  Hill,  the  banners  and 
badges  draped  in  monrning,  and  the  ceremonies  of  the  greeting  and  flag-raising 
to  b«  succeeded  by  requiem  services.  This  was  unanimously  adopted.  The 
Confederates  next  proposed  to  surrender  their  reunion,  appointed  for  Thursday 
afternoon,  and  invited  the  Army  of  the  Cumberland  to  unite  with  them  at  that 
hour  in  a  Union  Memorial  Service.  This  invitation  was  cordially  accepted. 

The  sun  rose  into  a  cloudless  sky  on  Thursday,  September  22,  1881.  All 
trains  entering  the  city  were  packed  with  visitors.  Hundreds  came  by  all  kinds 


AND  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN.  13 

of  conveyances  on  the  public  roads,  and  by  10  o'clock  there  were  not  less  than 
ten  thousand  strangers  in  the  city.  The  headquarters  of  both  armies  were 
crowded,  and  the  Reception  Committees  found  it  no  small  matter  to  keep  up  the 
registers. 

Promptly  at  11  o'clock  the  two  columns  were  formed  at  the  points  announced. 
At  11.30  these  columns  united  into  a  grand  procession,  led  by  the  band  of  the 
Fifth  Artillery,  U.  S.  A. 

The  sad  death  of  our  beloved  President  reduced  the  numoer  of  represeuta 
tives  more  than  one-hatf.  Thousands  were  en  route  to  our  city,  in  hopes  of  hav- 
ing a  jollification  of  the  must  patriotic  and  exhilarating  kind,  but  turned  back 
when  they  heard  of  the  pall  that  settled  down  on  Elberon.  It  did  not  occur  to 
them  that  this  very  sadness  would  add  to  the  effects  of  the  extraordinary  exer- 
cises devised  lor  them  in  Chattanooga.  They  thought  only  of  mirth  and  rejoic- 
ing at  such  a  gathering,  while  the  people  of  Chattanooga,  with  tearful  eyes, 
were  draping  their  homes  with  mourning,  and  exchanging  the  entertaiments 
and  amusements  for  a  requiem  and  a  funeral. 

The  ceremonies  on  Cameron  Hill  we  describe  in  the  "Tour  of  the  City,"  but  at 
4  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  memorial  services  were  held  in  the  court-house  square  by 
apppointment  of  the  societies  of  both  armies.  An  immense  throng  again  assem- 
bled and  listened  to  addresses  by  Gen.  Wheeler  and  Rev.  J.  "W.  Bachman,  from 
the  Confederates,  and  Gen  Cox,  of  Ohio,  and  Gen.  Willard  "Warner,  from  the 
Federals.  Hon.  D.  M.  Key  presided. 

This  union  meeting  appointed  the  following  committee,  after  adopting  suit- 
able resolutions,  to  attend  the  obsequies  of  the  President,  in  Cleveland,  on  the 
following  Monday,  viz. :  Maj.  A.  H.  Pettibone,  Maj.  G.  C.  Connor,  Capt.  J.  M. 
Thornburg,  Capt.  M.  H.  Clift,  Capt.  H.  S.  Chamberlain,  Rev.  Col.  J.  "W.  Bach- 
man  and  E.  A.  James.  The  committee  met  and  elected  A.  H.  Pettibone,  who 
was  a  classmate  of  the  President,  chairman,  and  G.  C.  Connor,  secretary. 

On  the  evening  previous  to  these  ceremonies  Judge  R.  H.  Cochran,  of  Wheel- 
ing, W.  Va.,  delivered  the  official  oration  before  the  Society  of  the  Army  of  the 
Cumberland.  So  truly  did  it  present  the  feelings  of  the  ex- Confederates  that 
they  unanimously  requested  it  for  publication. 

GPAt  this  writing  (May,  1889)  preparations  are  again  being  made  for  an- 
other reunion  of  the  Society  of  the  Army  of  the  Cumberland,  in  Chattanooga. 
September  next.  Our  people  will  welcome  those  brave  men  as  heartily  now  as 
they  did  in  1881. 

POINTS  OP  WAR  INTEREST. 

The  march  of  progress,  we  are  happy  to  say,  has  blotted  out  nearly  all  of 
the  landmarks  of  the  occupations  during  the  civil  war.  The  mighty  earthworks 
have  nearly  all  been  leveled,  and  Forts  Wood  and  Negley  have  given  place  to 
residences.  The  trenches  have  disappeared  by  the  processes  of  erosion,  and 
only  in  memory  do  the  forts,  lunettes,  redoubts  and  batteries  announced  in  Gen- 
eral Order  ISTo.  63,  April  27,  1864,  exist. 

On  the  eminence  east  of  the  town  palatial  residences  are  blotting  out  every 
trace  of  Fort  Wood.  The  huge  earthwork  that  stood  on  the  rising  ground  west 


14  HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  CHATTANOOGA 

of  the  Rosflville  road,  near  Montgomery  avenue  and  the  Stanton  House,  has  left 
a  few  traces,  but  they  will  soon  disappear.  Cameron  Hill  has  had  the  wrinkles 
of  forts  and  redoubts  smoothed  out  of  its  summit  and  bosom,  and  the  "old  res- 
ervoir," so  often  quoted,  has  turned  to  dust. 

Department  headquarters,  established  by  Gen.  Rosecrans,  and  continued  by 
Gen.  Thomas,  is  now  known  as  316  "Walnut  street,  and  it  was  there  Thomas 
welcomed  Grant  on  October  23,  1863.  There  the  battle  of  Missionary  Ridge  was 
planned  by  Grant,  Thomas  and  Sherman.  At  302  "Walnut  street  was  the  office 
of  the  adjutant  general,  and  at  326  "Walnut  was  the  headquarters  of  the  chief  of 
artillery,  Gen.  Brannan.  Around  the  corner,  on  First  street  from  "Walnut,  at 
No.  110,  was  Sherman's  headquarters.  At  19  East  Fourth  was  the  office  of  the 
provost  marshal  general  of  the  Army  of  the  Cumberland. 

These  buildings  have  been  but  slightly  changed  since  the  days  of  their  mili- 
tary occupancy.  "We  quote  them  here  for  the  information  of  the  members  of  the 
Army  of  the  Cumberland  who  are  continually  visiting  the  city. 

The  removal  of  the  heavy  forest  growth  from  Cameron  Hill  and  from  various 
parts  of  the  city  changes  the  aspect  from  what  was  seen  by  the  Confederates 
when  they  evacuated,  and  by  the  Army  of  the  Cumberland  immediately  after 
the  disaster  of  Chickamauga,  and  only  certain  buildings  remain  as  landmarks  of 
forts  and  hospitals.  Ex-Confederates  will  remember  the  residence  as  the  head- 
quarters of  Gen.  Bragg,  and  the  large  building  and  fine  grounds  on  the  corner 
of  Pine  and  Sixth  as  the  headquarters  of  Gen.  D.  H.  Hill.  This  was  Gen.  Mo- 
Pherson's  headquarters  in  Federal  days. 

The  marking  of  places  by  the  erection  of  tablets  is  not  to  be  commended, 
since  they  would  be  memorials  of  a  fraetricidal  strife  that  should  be  forgotten  as 
soon  as  possible.  The  descendants  of  the  gallant  men  on  both  sides  should  not 
be  perpetually  reminded  that  their  fathers  once  were  enemies. 

An  HISTORIC  HOUSB. 

On  the  corner  of  Market  and  Fourth  streets  stands  a  three-story  brick  build- 
ing, the  first  erected  in  Chattanooga,  and  perhaps  the  only  landmark  of  those 
early  days  with  a  pathetic  history.  Indeed,  its  seamed,  bolted  and  battered  ap- 
pearance suggests  an  enquiry  to  every  visitor. 

This  building  was  erected  in  1840,  and  is  now  used  by  the  city  for  its  Council 
chamber,  its  city  offices,  and  police  headquarters.  It  has  been  so  used  since 
1883,  the  year  it  was  purchased  by  the  city.  For  six  years  previously  it  was 
used  by  the  county  for  like  purposes. 

Prior  to  the  war  the  ground  floor  was  used  as  stores,  the  second  floor  as  sleep- 
ing apartments,  and  the  third  as  a  Masonic  hall.  "When  the  Confederates  occu- 
pied the  city  they  converted  the  upper  floors  into  a  prison,  and  the  lower  one 
was  occupied  as  military  offices,  especially  by  the  provost  marshal.  There  were 
oaken  floors  laid  above,  to  add  security  to  the  prison,  and  into  these  floors  were 
driven  staples  and  rings,  to  which  chains  were  attached,  and  to  the  chains  the 
shackles  of  the  unfortunate  prisoners  were  fastened.  The  prisoners,  thus 
chained,  were  of  all  classes;  spies,  deserters,  traitors  to  the  Southern  cause,  and 
criminals.  Even  after  making  allowances  for  exaggeration,  the  stories  told  of 


AND  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN.  15 

those  gloomy  rooms  are  most  harrowing.  Out  of  them  went  gallant  fellows  to 
be  shot  as  spies  and  as  "traitors,"  and  criminals  to  suffer  the  just  decrees  of 
broken  laws.  The  records  are  lo.st,  and  we  arc  glad  that  they  are. 

When  the  Confederates  evacuated  and  the  Federals  came  into  possession  the 
tables  were  turned  sure  enough,  and  guards  and  informers  became  prisoners,  to 
be  watched  and  punished  by  those  who  stood  in  terror  of  incarceration  only  a 
few  weeks  before.  Spies,  deserters  and  criminals  still  lay  chained  to  the  floor, 
and  brave  as  well  as  bad  men  went  to  their  death  as  before. 

Early  in  1864  the  block  of  buildings  adjoining  the  house  on  the  south  caught 
fire,  and  was  destroyed.  During  the  fire  a  Confederate,  charged  with  being  a 
spy,  succeeded  in  getting  out  upon  the  roof,  and  by  superhuman  efforts  saved 
his  prison.  He  was  released  next  day  for  his  gallantry. 

The  close  of  the  war  returned  this  building  to  its  owners  in  a  dilapidated 
condition,  and  it  was  variously  used  until  October,  1877,  when  it  was  purchased 
by  the  county  for  court-house  purposes,  at  a  cost  of  $10,000.  Something  over 
$7,000  worth  of  repairs  were  made.  When  the  court-house  was  finished  this 
building  was  vacated,  and  the  city  bought  it  in  January,  1883,  paying  only 
$6,000.  Changes  and  repairs  were  made  which  have  brought  it  to  its  present 
appearance ;  unsightly  architecturally,  but  a  landmark  worthy  of  preservation. 

A  GREAT  PROSPERITY. 

After  the  disorders  that  followed  the  close  of  the  war  had  ended,  and  honest 
government  had  assumed  control,  Chattanooga  began  to  struggle  into  the  light. 
A  mighty  effort  was  made  by  those  interested  in  the  Alabama  &  Chattanooga 
Railway  to  practically  remove  the  business  of  the  city  south  of  the  Western  & 
Atlantic  Railroad.  The  Stanton  House  was  built,  the  foundation  of  an  im- 
mense opera-house  was  laid,  a  large  railway  station  was  erected,  and  that  part 
of  Market  Street  was  thoroughly  macadamized.  For  a  time  success  crowned 
the  effort;  and  then  came  the  big  fire  in  1870,  which  swept  away  the  "shanties 
and  shebangs"  along  the  west  side  of  Market.  At  the  same  time  the  Alabama 
<fc  Chattanooga  Railway  Company  faUed,  and  with  it  failed  the  scheme  for  re- 
moval. The  Stauton  House  remains,  but  the  opera-house  foundation  is  occu- 
pied by  a  freight-house,  and  the  great  wooden  station-house  has  long  since  been 
pulled  down.  The  "shanties  and  shebangs"  were  gradually  supplanted  by 
handsome  brick  stores. 

Not  until  the  eighties  was  the  future  of  Chattanooga  assured  beyond  the  pos- 
sibilities. In  1887  there  came  a  marrellous  wave  of  prosperity.  To  be  sure  it 
had  its  exaggerations  and  some  unhealthiness,  but  progress  has  been  continuous 
ever  since.  Now  we  are  indeed  assuming  metropolitan  airs.  We  have  all  the 
conveniences  of  advanced  civilization,  and  all  the  appliances  necessary  to  build 
up  a  solid,  healthful,  beautiful  city.  Our  location  has  wrought  wonders  in  our 
behalf. 

Ex-Mayor  Hewitt,  of  New  York  City,  made  this  city  a  risit  in  April  last, 
and  predicted  that  a  million  and  a  half  of  people  would  occupy  these  valleys 
and  swarm  upon  their  mountain  walls  long  before  the  close  of  the  twentieth 


16  HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  CHATTANOOGA 

century.  Mr.  Jay  Gould  expressed  the  opinion,  while  standing  on  the  "Point" 
last  winter,  that  we  would  have  one  hundred  thousand  souls  before  the  close  of 
nineteen  hundred. 

The  negro  problem  is  creating  some  anxiety  among  thoughtful  citizens,  but 
the  influx  of  Americans  from  the  North,  and  of  foreigners  from  Germany  and 
Ireland,  will  solve  that  problem.  The  writer  will  not  live  to  see  the  pressing 
southward  of  that  unfortunate  race  by  this  invasion  from  the  north  and  from 
beyond  seas.  But  the  negro  has  been  pressed  southward  from  New  England, 
and  his  destiny  is  as  assuredly  southward  as  was  the  Indian's  destiny  westward. 
Within  fifty  years  the  negro  will  be  as  infrequent  in  the  valleys  of  Chattanooga 
and  Lookout  as  he  now  is  in  the  valley  of  the  Gennessee  in  New  York. 

Chattanooga  is  thoroughly  cosmopolitan.  All  good  people  who  desire  to 
make  an  honest  living  are  sought  after.  The  gates  of  the  city  swing  inward 
to  welcome  all  such,  for  the  commingling  of  the  blood  of  northerner  and  south- 
erner will  produce  the  most  vigorous  race  known  to  the  annals  of  humanity. 
Such  a  race  will  have  but  one  Law,  one  Union,  one  God  1 

THE  CLIMATE. 

Most  important  of  all  attractions  to  persons  seeking  a  desirable  place  of  resi- 
dence is  the  climate  of  Chattanooga.  Think  of  a  spot  where  it  is  cool  in  sum- 
mer and  warm  in  winter — the  mountain  walls  that  ward  off  the  winter's  chilly 
blasts  from  the  north  form  funnels,  through  which  the  gentle  breezes  in  summer 
from  the  southwest  sweep  through  the  valley  by  day,  and  especially  by  night. 
This  condition  of  natural  surroundings  makes  the  heat  from  the  sun  bearable  by 
day  and  the  rest  at  night  sweet  and  refreshing  in  summer.  In  winter  the  moun- 
tains and  ridges  fold  their  arms  around  the  city  and  protect  it  from  the  cruel 
blasts  of  what  the  white  flags,  with  black  squares  in  the  center,  represent  aa 
cold  waves. 

A  prominent  physician,  who  came  to  this  city  from  his  home  in  Massachu- 
setts because  of  lung  troubles,  said  this  in  a  public  lecture: 

"  Who  among  us  is  not  mindful  of  the  rich  delights  of  our  usual  March  cli- 
mate t  March!  that  month  of  terror  in  other  latitudes,  brings  us  the  blossoms 
of  spring  in  rich  profusion,  the  working  days  in  our  gardens  and  flower-beds, 
and  gives  us  a  noonday  warmth  of  80  degrees,  while  the  coolness  of  night  rarely 
causes  the  mercury  to  fall  to  40.  April  follows  with  its  luxuriant  wealth  of 
flowers  in  field,  forests,  and  lawn ;  the  rich  and  varied  verdure  of  the  mountain 
slopes ;  the  grand  picnic  days ;  the  profusion  of  blossoming  laurel  and  azalea ; 
the  time  when  we  feel  most  the  exhilaration  of  a  tonic  atmosphere,  and  youth 
comes  again  to  age.  And  then  follows  May.  Beautiful !  beautiful !  glorious 
May !  Who  can  describe  an  East  Tennessee  May  in  any  other  way  than  by 
exclamations  T  Mayflowers!  No  indeed.  We  squander  those  in  March.  We 
hurry  past  our  roses  of  the  commoner  sorts  in  April,  and  come  into  realization  of 
the  complete  bliss  of  living  in  the  real  native  land  of  the  continual  blossoming 
rose,  in  the  early  days  of  May,  when  the  black  boys  peddle  young  mocking- 
birds through  the  streets,  and  the  luscious  red  strawberries  come,  so  sweet,  so 


AND  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN.  17 

plenty  and  so  welcome.  And  then  comes  June.  Young  summer,  older  than 
May,  wiser,  larger,  fuller,  and  bringing  the  first  harvests  of  ripened  grain; 
holding  in  its  provident  lap  the  most  liberal  bestowals  of  the  Almighty  in  re- 
wards for  the  labors  of  man,  with  a  great  bonus  of  earth's  spontaneous  fruits. 
And  there  are  no  hot  days  yet.  No  sweltering  nights. 

"Can  a  better  summer  resort  be  pictured?  If  consumptives  want  altitude 
and  mild  climate  together,  and  upon  that  all  authorities  agree,  it  is  to  be  found 
here.  These  mountains  are  so  common  to  us,  who  use  them  for  daily,  weekly 
ancfr  monthly  convenience  in  the  summer  days,  a  sleeping  place  away  from  the 
dust  and  mosquitoes,  as  well  as  cooler  home  quarters,  that  we  have  no  just 
appreciation  of  them.  But  the  mountains  of  East  Tennessee  are  destined  to 
occupy  a  high  place  in  the  public  estimation,  in  future,  as  a  living  place  for 
invalids." 

Another  physician,  who  also  came  here  from  the  North,  has  this  to  say  of  our 
surrounding  mountains: 

"During  the  last  six  years  I  have  spent  the  summers  on  Walden's  Ridge.  I 
speak  of  what  I  have  seen  with  my  own  eyes,  and  know  to  be  true,  that  if  tubeiv 
cles  are  not  already  formed  on  the  lungs,  and  continue  fully  developed  within 
the  body  of  the  lungs,  a  residence  of  a  year,  yea,  even  sometimes  a  few  months, 
will  dispel  all  fears  of  a  consumptive  death  from  the  mind  of  the  unfortunate. 
I  know  that  I  have  seen  them  carried  up  the  ridge  apparently  in  the  last  stages 
of  phthisic,  coughing  incessantly,  and  yet  they  lived  for  months,  slowly  improv- 
ing every  day,  until,  thinking  they  were  nearly  well,  they  left  the  mountain, 
went  back  to  the  Northern  clime,  and  in  a  few  weeks  the  inevitable  occurred. 
I  have  visited  nearly  every  house  on  "Walden's  Ridge,  every  cabin  and  hut,  and 
I  have  rarely  seen  a  native  with  any  lung  trouble  whatever. 

"  I  could  almost  say  the  same  of  Sand  Mountain,  Lookout  Mountain  and 
divers  other  places,  did  time  permit. 

""We,  fortunately,  are  living  in  a  clime  midway  between  the  icy  regions  of 
the  North  and  the  hot,  sultry  air  of  the  South — a  spot  where  it  is  not  too  warm 
for  comfort,  not  too  cold  to  even  bundle  up  on  the  coldest  of  days ;  certainly  the 
most  healthy,  the  most  pleasant  clime  known  to  me  on  earth.  Adopting  Chat- 
tanooga as  my  home  in  1865,  I  say  it,  without  fear  of  contradiction,  that  we 
have  the  most  healthy  climate,  the  most  prosperous  city,  the  most  pleasant  and 
hospitable  people  that  the  sun  shines  on.  May  the  balance  of  my  life  be  spent 
among  them,  for  verily  my  lines  have  been  cast  in  pleasant  places." 

It  may  be  of  interest  to  those  who  determine  the  balminess  of  a  city  by  the 
general  direction  of  the  winds  to  say  that  the  prevailing  direction  of  wind  at 
Chattanooga  is  southwest,  at  St.  Louis  south,  at  Cincinnati  southeast,  at  Toledo 
southwest,  at  Albany  south,  at  "Washington  west,  at  Omaha  south,  and  Pitts- 
burg  northwest. 

EDUCATIONAL  FACILITIES. 

The  Public  School  System  of  Chattanooga  is  an  admirable  one,  patterned 
after  the  best  models,  and  conducted  in  the  most  practical,  satisfactory  manner. 
There  is  a  Board  of  Education,  sixteen  members,  and  a  Superintendent,  sixty- 
2 


18 

fonr  teachers,  five  Primary  Schools,  four  Grammar  Schools,  and  two  High 
Schools.  These  are  conducted  in  six  large,  convenient,  well  heated  and  venti- 
lated, and  thoroughly  drained  buildings. 

There  are  four  grades  in  the  Primary  Schools,  four  grades  in  the  Grammar 
Schools,  and  three  classes,  junior,  middle  and  senior,  in  the  High  Schools. 

LOCATION  OP  SCHOOL  BUILDINGS. 

CHATTANOOGA  HIGH  SCHOOL,  corner  of  Gillespie  and  Early  streets. 

HOWARD  HIGH  SCHOOL,  Gilmer  street. 

FIRST  DISTRICT,  corner  McCallie  avenue  and  Douglas  street. 

SECOND  DISTRICT,  corner  of  Gillospio  and  Early  streets. 

THIRD  DISTRICT,  William  street. 

GILMBR  STREET  SCHOOL,  Giluier  street. 

MONTGOMERY  AVENUE  SCHOOL,  Montgomery  aveune. 

There  are  a  number  of  private  schools,  which  are  made  necessary  by  the 
views  of  their  patrons.  These  schools  are  reported  to  be  conducted  to  the 
entire  satisfaction  of  those  patrons. 

NOTRE  DAME  DE  LOUDRES  ACADEMY. 

This  School,  under  control  of  the  Catholic  Church,  is  conducted  by  the 
Dominican  Sisters.  The  building  is  large,  conveniently  arranged  for  its  pur- 
poses, and  there  are  praises  only  for  the  charming,  uniformed  women  who  con- 
duct it.  It  is  a  parochial  school,  as  well  as  a  young  ladies'  seminary,  and  the 
building  stands  on  the  Catholic  Church  square. 

We  hazard  nothing  in  affirming  that  the  educational  facilities  of  Chattanooga 
(see  "Chattanooga  University,"  page  29)  are  all  that  can  be  desired,  and  this 
opinion  is  continually  being  confirmed  by  families  removing  to  this  city  to  secure 
the  thorough  education  of  their  children. 

Not  only  are  the  Public  School  buildingg  for  the  separate  education  of  whites 
and  blacks  ample  and  commodious,  they  are  handsome  from  an  architectural 
standpoint,  and  healthful.  The  colored  people  are  as  amply  provided  for  as  are 
the  whites.  Their  teachers  are  of  their  own  race,  without  exception. 

THE  CHURCHES. 

Chattanoogans,  with  pardonable  pride,  point  out  to  visitors  their  handsome 
church  edifices.  The  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  corner  of  McCallie  and 
Georgia  avenues,  is  of  blue  limestone,  and  surmounted  by  a  lofty  spire.  Its 
windows  attract  special  attention.  Near  by,  on  Gilmer  street,  the  Methodist 
Episcopal  Church,  South,  is  of  brick,  its  tall,  graceful  spire  visible  from  all 
points  in  the  valley.  On  the  same  street,  and  near  to  Georgia  avenue,  is  the 
immense  Catholic  Church  building,  flanked  by  the  home  of  the  Dominican 
Sisters,  who  teach  in  the  large  school  building  close  by,  and  by  the  pastor's 
houne,  on  Georgia  avenue.  The  First  Baptist  Church  has  a  massive  building,  on 
Georgia  avenue,  built  of  pink  sandstone,  with  drab  facings,  the  windows  of 


AND  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN.  1'J 

which  are  wonderfully  beautiful ;  and  on  the  same  avenue,  corner  of  Sev- 
enth, is  the  brick  structure  of  the  First  Presbyterian  Church.  Close  by,  on 
Walnut  street,  is  the  tasty,  modestly  trimmed  Church  of  the  Christians;  and  on 
Oak  street  you  see  the  delicate  spire  of  the  Cumberland  Presbyterian  Church. 

On  the  West  side  of  Market,  corner  of  Eighth  and  Chestnut,  is  the  present 
edifice  of  the  Second  Presbyterian  Church.  This  church  is  preparing  to  build  a 
handsome  house  of  worship. 

On  the  corner  of  Pine  and  Seventh  is  the  immense  pile  known  as  St.  Paul's 
Protestant  Episcopal  Church.  The  Rectory  and  Parochial  School  are  included 
in  this  pile. 

The  colored  people  have  erected  two  handsome  ehurch  buildings — one  by  the 
Baptists,  on  Gilmer,  the  other  by  the  Methodists,  on  corner  of  Lookout  and 
Fifth  streets. 

The  Jewish  Synagogue  is  on  "Walnut  street,  and  is  soon  to  be  remodeled  and 
beautified. 

These  are  the  main  edifices,  but  there  are  quite  a  number  of  less  expensive 
buildings  in  different  parts  of  the  city  and  in  the  suburbs.  The  Unitarians 
worship  in  the  Hall  of  the  Chamber  of  Commerce,  but  announce  their  intention 
of  erecting  a  house  of  worship  next  year. 


THE  KAILROADS. 

Not  only  has  Chattanooga  a  great  waterway  for  the  movement  of  raw  mate- 
rial that  does  not  demand  rapid  transportation,  but  it  is  the  terminus  of  eight 
trunk  railways,  that  are  not  only  well  equipped,  but  are  provided  with  ampk« 
terminal  facilities. 

The  "Western  &  Atlantic  was  the  first  railway  to  enter  the  valley;  it  was5 
built  by  the  State  of  Georgia.  In  the  early  days  of  its  business,  cotton  bales 
were  wont  to  be  piled  the  entire  length  of  Mulberry  (now  Broad)  street,  from 
the  river  to  the  railway's  freight  shed,  at  Ninth  street,  awaiting  transportation. 
Then  the  locomotives  and  freight  cars  were  but  toys  in  comparison  to  those  of 
the  present  day,  and  complaints  of  shippers  were  loud  and  fierce.  The  city  gave 
this  road  a  right  of  way  down  Mulberry  to  the  river,  and  that  right  was  not 
surrendered  until  1872.  Mulberry  street  was  widened  from  60  to  126  feet  for  the 
uses  of  the  railroad,  and  its  name  was  changed  to  Eailroad  avenue.  This  will 
yet  be  the  main  thoroughfare. 

The  Nashville  &  Chattanooga  road  came  next  after  the  "Western  &  Atlantic, 
and  gave  access  to  the  rich  granaries  of  Middle  Tennessee,  and  also  provided  a 
continuous  rail  from  the  future  capital  of  Georgia  to  the  capital  of  Tennessee. 
This  stimulated  the  building  of  the  Louisville  &  Nashville. 

The  East  Tennessee  did  not  at  first  extend  the  main  line  any  further  than 
Cleveland,  and  built  a  branch  to  Dalton,  Ga.,  to  make  connection  with  the 
"Western  &  Atlantic,  and  supply  the  South  with  the  surplus  of  cereals  and  meat 
found  in  East  Tennessee.  Several  years  after  the  opening  to  Dalton  the  rnahi 
line  was  built  into  Chattanooga,  piercing  Missionary  Kidge  with  a  tunnel  instead 


20  HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  CHATTANOOGA 

of  going  around  its  northern  extremity,  as  the  "Western  &  Atlantic  had  done. 
This  road  has  since  built  a  line  from  Chattanooga  to  Atlanta  and  Macon,  con- 
necting with  its  road  to  Brunswick,  on  the  lower  Atlantic. 

The  Wills  Valley  Railroad,  which  was  surveyed  to  Meridian,  Miss.,  in  1847, 
was  running  to  Trenton,  Ga.,  when  the  war  hegan.  After  the  war  it  was  com- 
pleted to  Meridian  and  called  the  Alabama  &  Chattanooga.  Subsequently  it 
was  bought  by  the  present  owners  and  the  name  changed  to  Alabama  Great 
Southern. 

The  Memphis  &  Charleston,  whose  rails  end  at  Stephenson,  Ala.,  and  whose 
connections  with  the  East  Tennessee  system  at  Chattanooga  are  made  over  the 
rails  of  the  Nashville  &  Chattanooga,  was  the  great  East  &  "West  line  when 
the  war  began.  Its  name  implies  a  through  rail  connection  of  the  Father  of 
"Waters  with  the  broad  Atlantic,  through  Chattanooga,  Atlanta,  Augusta  and 
Charleston. 

The  city  of  Cincinnati,  in  full  appreciation  of  its  southern  trade,  built  the 
great  Cincinnati  Southern  through  the  mountains  of  Tennessee,  boring  thirteen 
tunnels  through  its  ridges,  at  an  expense  of  over  twenty  millions  of  dollars. 
The  owners  of  the  Alabama  Great  Southern  are  the  lessees  of  this  highway. 
This  and  the  Louisville  &  Nashville  are  competitors  for  the  freights  that  pass  to 
and  through  Chattanooga. 

The  Chattanooga,  Rome  <fc  Columbus  is  a  new  line,  opening  up  a  country  of 
great  importance  to  Chattanooga.  It  passes  the  battle-field  of  Chickainauga,  and 
crosses  close  to  Crawfish  Spring,  over  the  river  that  flows  out  of  that  spring. 

The  Union  (or  Belt)  Railway  surrounds  the  city,  and  sends  out  branches  to 
the  various  suburbs.  It  has  created  and  maintained  those  suburbs  by  low  rates 
and  quick  service,  both  of  passengers  and  freights. 

Several  railroads  are  projected — one  to  Augusta,  Ga.,  another  to  connect  with 
the  North  Carolina  system  via  Murphy,  and  a  local  road  to  the  summit  of  "Wai- 
den's  Ridge,  and  Signal  Point;  the  latter  the  rival  of  the  Point  of  Lookout.  It 
is  also  believed  that  the  Memphis  &  Charleston  will  extend  its  rails  into  Chatta- 
nooga through  South  Pittsburg  and  Sequachee  Valley,  crossing  the  Tennessee 
at  Chattanooga.  "When  this  is  done,  and  the  bridge  is  completed  over  the  river, 
'•Dill  City"  will  become  the  most  populous  of  the  suburbs. 

The  railroads  have  made  Chattanooga.  The  chronic  war  that  always  exists 
between  railways  and  cities  has  not  escaped  Chattanooga  for  all  that.  Hence, 
the  citizens  are  looking  for  the  completion  of  the  Muscle  Shoals  Canal  with  more 
than  ordinary  anxiety.  They  expect  to  use  the  river  as  a  liquid  club  with  which 
to  frighten  the  railways  into  lower  and  more  equitable  rates  of  freight.  But, 
club  or  no  club,  the  railroads  will  remain  the  great  arteries  through  which  will 
come  and  go  the  life  blood  of  Chattanooga. 

The  roads  to  the  summit  of  Lookout  were  completed  in  1887  and  in  1889,  and 
are  described  in  the  Excursions.  They  have  done  much  for  the  comfort  of  our 
citizens  by  furnishing  rapid  transit  during  the  warm  months  of  summer.  They 
have  also  added  to  the  importance  of  the  mountain  by  making  its  airy  summit 
easy  of  access  to  excursionists  and  pleasure  seekers. 

The  Electric  Railway  makes  Missionary  Ridge  even  more  easy  of  access  than 


AND  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN.  21 

Lookout,  and  has  added  greatly  to  the  comforts  of  the  large  population  now 
living  on  that  beautiful  and  historic  bill-top. 

Next  in  importance  to  the  railroads  is  the  great  river,  whose  passage  to  the 
Mississippi  has  been  interrupted  by  the  Muscle  Shoals.  These  obstructions  and 
the  necessity  of  removing  them  are  not  by  any  means  new  discoveries.  More 
than  fifty  years  ago  the  whole  question  was  discussed  by  the  ablest  statesmen 
and  engineers  in  the  country,  and  it  is  probable  that  the  pernicious  doctrine 
which  prevailed  at  that  time,  that  the  General  Government  ought  not  to  engage 
in  internal  improvements,  had  a  great  deal  to  do  with  the  smallness  of  the 
results. 

A  few  facts  will  illustrate  the  importance  of  this  waterway  to  Chattanooga : 

The  Tennessee  is  open  all  winter,  at  the  very  time  when  the  Northern  water 
routes  are  frozen  up  and  the  railroads  are  putting  on  the  highest  rates.  For  this 
reason  boats  from  the  Ohio  Kiver  which  are  obliged  to  lay  up  for  the  winter,  and 
are  so  much  in  danger  of  ice  gorges  that  Congress  has  been  considering  the  pro- 
priety of  expending  a  large  sum  to  build  harbors  of  refuge  for  them,  could 
aflbrd  to  come  down  here  during  the  winter  and  work  for  the  lowest  rates  that 
would  pay  running  expenses. 

The  Chattanooga  coal  and  iron  fields  are  450  miles  nearer  the  mouth  of  the 
Ohio  River  than  is  the  city  of  Pittsburg,  which  amounts  to  saying  that  we  have 
that  distance  the  start  of  Pittsburg  in  reaching  any  point  on  the  Mississippi,  or 
its  western  tributaries.  Chattanooga  has  about  the  same  advantage,  so  far  as 
distance  is  concerned,  that  she  would  have  if  Pittsburg  were  located  above 
Bristol,  Tenn.,  and  had  to  run  its  freights  down  the  river. 

The  assurance  is  given  at  this  writing  that  before  Christmas  of  1889  steam- 
boats will  be  passing  freely  through  the  Muscle  Shoals  Canal,  and  Chattanooga 
will  have  uninterrupted  water  transportation  connection  with  the  world. 


22  HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  CHATTANOOGA 


A  TOUR  OF  THE  CITY. 


Let  us  now  conduct  the  visitor  on  a  short  tour  of  the  city,  and  we  will  begin 
at  the  Union  Passenger  Depot,  if  he  is  willing  to  our  guidance. 

"We  drive  down  Market  street,  along  the  fine  asphalt  pavement,  until  we 
reach  Fourth  street,  where  stands  the  principal  historical  house  of  the  city,  the 
three-story,  plain  brick  building  on  the  southwest  corner.  It  is  now  the  city 
building,  and  is  flanked  by  the  city  jail  on  the  west.  It  is  battered,  bolted,  and 
somewhat  unshapely,  for  it  was  the  first  brick  house  erected  in  the  city.  It  was 
built  in  1840  of  the  bricks  burned  with  the  wood  that  was  cleared  off  what  are 
now  Market  and  Broad  streets,  and  the  owners,  Messrs.  Whiteside,  Williams  <fe 
Bridgeinan,  were  pronounced  the  most  venturesome  of  men. 

Drive  over  to  Broad,  along  Fourth,  and  then  up  Broad  to  Seventh.  Go  west 
until  you  reach  the  large  ecclesiastical  pile  known  as  the  Protestant  Episcopal 
Church.  Take  a  peep  at  its  unique  interior,  and  then  ascend  to  the  summit  of 
Cameron  Hill  by  the  road  on  the  eastern  brow.  "While  you  ascend,  the  prospect 
widens  and  brightens  until  the  valley  of  Chattanooga,  with  its  prosperous  city, 
its  bright  painted  suburbs,  its  forest  of  brick  and  iron  smoke  stacks,  its  great 
throbbing,  rumbling  factories,  its  iron  highways,  its  historic  mountain  walls,  its 
vineyards  and  orchards  and  majestic  river  lies  beyond  and  behind  you;  a  beauti- 
ful panorama,  full  of  color,  life  and  promise  for  the  future. 

The  carriage  will  halt  at  the  base  of  the  now  broken  flag-staff,  that  was  set 
up  there  in  1881,  when  the  stars  and  stripes  were  run  up  to  its  lofty  summit  by  a 
member  of  the  Society  of  the  Army  of  the  Cumberland  and  a  member  of  the 
specially-organized-for  the-occasiou  society  of  ex-Confederates.  And  when  the 
grand  old  ensign  flashed  in  the  sun  of  that  September  day  the  cannons  planted 
on  demolished  Fort  "Wood  poured  forth  a  salute  that  was  echoed  by  the  shouts  of 
the  thousands  that  swarmed  upon  Cameron  Hill  and  upon  the  streets  of  the  city 
below. 

Descending  from  your  carriage,  you  alight  where  stood  a  battery  when  Gen. 
Mitchell  indulged  the  diversion  one  Sunday  morning  of  shelling  the  city  while 
the  people  were  at  prayer.  Where  you  see  the  fine  brick  "  Central  Block,"  corner 
of  Market  and  Seventh  streets,  there  stood  the  Presbyterian  Church,  which  was 
struck  by  one  of  those  shells,  and  dismissed  the  congregation  without  a  bene- 
diction. 

Begin"  your  examination  of  the  panorama  at  the  base  of  Mount  Lookout,  just 
where  the  "Point"  stands  out  so  clear-cut  against  the  southwestern  sky.  The 
foliage  of  the  Moccasin  conceals  the  river  as  it  sweeps  around  the  base  of  the 
great  nb.-tructioii  to  flow  northward  again  toward  the  open  gateway,  which  is 
seen  beyond  the  heart-shaped  island  directly  west.  Kaccoon  Mountain,  1,000 
feet  above  the  gently  flowing  water,  forms  the  western  wall  of  the  valley,  and  a 


AND  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN. 


23 


pillar  of  the  gateway  to  this  valley  of  imperishable  memories.  It  is  only  a  few 
hundred  yards  across  the  "ankle  "  to  where  the  tide  is  parted  by  an  island  just 
as  it  enters  the  mountain  gorge,  hurries  on  to  the  Father  of  Waters,  and  thence 
to  the  gulf. 

"Walden's  Ridge,  with  its  level  plateau  and  precipitous  bluffs,  is  dotted  with 
summer  houses.  Between  the  river,  above  which  you  stand,  and  the  base  of 
this  ridge,  you  can  discover  a  well  wooded  stretch  of  land,  on  whose  billowy 
bosom  numerous  white  cottages  nestle  in  the  ample  shade.  A  church  steeple 
assures  you  of  the  permanancy  of  this  suburb,  now  known  as  "Hill  City,"  and 
the  superb  bridge,  soon  to  be  thrown  over  the  river,  will  make  it  a  favorite 
among  the  suburban  claimants. 

Below  you  see  saw  mills  and  planing  mills  and  the  rails  of  the  Union  Rail- 
'way.  On  the  rounded,  detached  terrace,  on  the  eastern  side  of  your  point  of 
observation,  are  the  reservoirs  of  the  water- works,  now  abandoned  for  the  works 
described  elsewhere. 

Looking  due  east,  and  near  to  the  river,  you  will  discover  the  Confederate 
monument  in  the  densely  shaded  "old  cemetery";  also  the  stacks  of  the  water- 
works and  of  Citico  Blast  Furnace.  Turning  a  little  to  the  right  the  floating  en- 
sign of  the  Union  locates  the  beautifully  kept  enclosure  of  the  National  Ceme- 
tery. Beyond  these  is  Missionary  Kklge,  and  dotting  the  valley  from  Boyce  to 
East  Lake  are  the  suburbs,  better  seen  from  the  summit  of  Lookout. 


24  HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  CHATTANOOGA 

Ton  now  see  within  the  corporate  limits  the  University  and  the  spires  of  the 
two  Methodist  and  the  two  Presbyterian  churches,  and  also  the  towers  of  the 
Baptist  and  of  the  immense  Catholic  Church.  The  court-house,  handsomely  de- 
8'gned  and  honestly  erected,  stands  in  the  open  green  beside  the  -wooden  Baptist 
church. 

Having  feasted  yonr  eyes  on  this  attractive  landscape,  resume  your  carriage 
and  begin  the  descent  by  the  old  roadway  on  the  western  side.  The  rocky 
"point"  of  Lookout  is  projected  into  the  air,  and  to  it  you  see  the  smoke  and 
steam  of  factories  ascending  like  incerse — an  offering  of  gratitude  to  that  vigi- 
lant sentinel  whose  eyes  never  close  in  neglectful  slumber. 

Your  carriage  enters  the  western  road  at  the  spot  where  stood  the  catafalque, 
and  where  the  Society  of  the  Army  of  the  Cumberland  and  the  Society  of  ex- 
Confederates  held  memorial  services  on  September  22,  1881,  for  the  President  of- 
the  United  States,  James  A.  Garfield,  whose  remains  were  then  lying  in  state  at 
the  nation's  capital.     Surely  that  spot  was  marie  sacred  by  those  tearful  services. 

We  are  unable  to  paint  the  scenes  of  that  memorable  day  on  Cameron  Hill. 
On  the  extreme  summit,  which  you  have  just  left,  and  on  the  brow  overlooking 
the  Tennessee,  had  been  reared  the  flag-staff,  now  gone  to  decay ;  and  a  garrison 
flag,  heavily  draped,  lay  with  its  halyards  at  the  base  of  the  pole.  An  immense 
multitude,  representing  every  race  and  color  that  has  sought  an  asylum  in  our 
great  country,  stood  around,  leaving  only  a  small  open  space  for  the  ceremonies. 
Along  the  slope,  down  to  the  canopied  stand  on  which  the  orations  were  to  be  pro- 
nounced, stood  the  waiting  thousands.  The  sun  poured  down  its  fierce  meridian 
rays,  unobscured  by  a  single  cloud,  but  there  was  not  a  murmur.  Southward 
arose  grand  old  Lookout,  like  a  sentinel  above  the  Moccasin  Bend,  and  guarding 
the  approach  to  the  sacred  spot  where  slept  the  brave  men  who  made  the  distant 
fields  of  Missionary  Ridge  and  Chickamauga  immortal.  Up  from  the  city  came 
the  long  procession  of  ex-Federal  and  ex-Confederate  soldiers,  their  banners 
draped  and  drooping,  and  their  bands  playing  solemn  music.  There  was  naught 
of  gaud  or  display ;  it  was  a  long  funeral  cortege,  a  tribute  of  love  to  him  whose 
ashes  lay  in  state  at  the  capitol  of  the  republic. 

The  canopied  stand,  heavily  draped,  had  a  large  portrait  of  the  martyred 
President  suspended  in  the  center.  In  front  of  the  rostrum  was  an  inclosure,  iu 
the  center  of  which  was  a  beautiful  catafalque  covered  with  white  cloth  and 
decorated  with  the  choicest  of  cut-flower  emblems,  vines  and  evergreens.  On 
the  summit  of  that  flowery  pyramid  an  immense  urn  was  surmounted  by  a  floral 
<  ross  and  crown.  This  was  the  work  of  the  ladies  of  Chattanooga,  a  committee 
of  whom  tsat  at  its  base  during  the  ceremonies. 

Soon  the  procession  reached  the  hill-top  and  the  base  of  the  flag-staff.  The 
marshals  of  both  armies  approached  the  staff  and  saluted.  The  two  chiefs 
grasped  the  halyards,  the  baud  rent  the  air  with  the  "  Star  Spangled  Banner,"  the 
artillery  at  Fort  "Wood  fired  a  salve  of  thirty-eight  guns.  Up  went  the  old  flag, 
the  halyards  moving  under  the  hands  of  an  ex- Federal  and  an  ex-Confederate, 
and  as  the  breeze  caught  up  the  graceful  folds  of  that  most  beautiful  of  ensigns, 
the  war-worn  veterans  went  wild  with  delight.  Cheer  after  cheer  rent  the  air 
T heu  the  band  played  "  Dixie,"  and  the  enthusiasm  arose  almost  to  madness. 


AND  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN.  25 

Men  who  once  were  enemies  threw  their  hats  into  the  air  and  rushed  into  each 
•other's  armw,  and  on  the  summit  of  Cameron  Hill,  in  full  view  of  Lookout,  Mis- 
sion Ridge  and  Chickamauga,  and  of  the  National  and  Confederate  Cemeteries, 
the  American  Union  was  irrevocably  restored  beyond  the  disintegrating  power 
of  demagogue  or  madman. 

Presently  the  thrilling  notes  of  the  band  changed  to  a  dirge.  The  flag  slowly 
descended  to  half  mast,  hats  were  removed  and  a  hush  pervaded  the  multitude 
that  a  moment  before  was  wild  with  excitement.  Every  eye  was  moist  with 
tears  of  sympathy  for  the  sweet,  good  woman  who  then  sat  by  the  bier  of  him 
the  nation  delighted  to  honor. 

The  procession  returned  to  the  rostrum,  which  was  already  packed  with  dis- 
tinguished ex-Confederate  and  Federal  officers.  The  space  around  the  inclosure 
containing  the  catafalque  was  so  densely  packed  that  several  fainted.  When 
the  procession  occupied  the  space  allowed  them,  there  was  not  a  green  spot  or 
Cameron  Hill  visible  to  the  tallest  man  who  stood  upon  the  raised  platform ;  i> 
was  covered  with  a  mass  of  human  beings,  densely  packed,  and  awaiting  with 
bated  breath  the  utterings  of  the  Confederate  welcome. 

Following  the  addresses,  made  by  S.  A.  Key  for  the  Confederates  and  by  J. 
"W.  Keifer  for  the  Society  of  the  Army  of  the  Cumberland,  came  the  requiem 
services,  led  by  Rev.  J.  "W.  Bachman,  D.  D.,  an  ex- Confederate  colonel.  The 
music,  the  prayer,  the  Scriptures,  the  addresses,  the  sorrowing  Templars  and 
weeping  women,  were  all  in  unison — a  tribute  of  love  to  the  martyred,  and  an 
•expression  of  affection  and  sympathy  for  the  bereaved  widow  and  fatherless 
•children.  At  its  conclusion,  the  people  silently  descended  the  hill,  and  those 
who  stood  near  the  catafalque  begged  far  the  flowers  and  vines  to  carry  home  as 
*acred  memorials  of  the  tender  occasion. 

As  yon  continue  the  descent,  you  see  on  the  narrow  strip  of  laud  between 
mount  and  river  the  planing  mill  of  Hughes  A  Co.,  the  electric  light  plant,  the 
buildings  of  the  Roane  Iron  Company's  steel  mill,  and  the  plant  of  Montague 
<fc  Co.,  where  are  made  fire-bricks  and  vitrified  sewer  pipes  in  very  large 
quantities. 

Instruct  your  hackman  to  drive  out  Magazine  street  to  Terrace,  where  yon 
will  find  several  of  the  handsomest  residences  of  the  city.  The  circuit  of  the 
Terrace  is  made  around  the  elegant  residence  of  Capt  H.  S.  Chamberlain,  and  a 
.good  view  is  obtained  of  the  Tannery  plant  of  Fayerweather  &  Ladew,  in  the 
centre  of  which  is  securely  sandwiched  the  lofty  stack,  cupola  and  outlying 
buildings  of  the  Chattanooga  Iron  Company's  blast  furnace. 

Admission  to  this  Tannery,  one  of  the  largest  in  the  world,  is  obtained  at  the 
•office,  and  you  are  conducted  over  acres  of  concealed  vats,  in  which  lie  thousands 
upon  thousands  of  hides ;  on  by  the  currying  department,  where  scores  of  sable 
artists,  with  huge  knives,  raise  a  scent  that  excells  attar  of  roses;  through 
miles  of  leather,  bark,  leeches  and  drying-houses.  You  will  see  thousands  of 
gallons  of  bark  coffee,  heaps  of  white  hair  suitable  for  the  making  of  camel's 
hair  shawls,  thousands  of  cords  of  oak  bark  awaiting  the  embraces  of  the  huge 
coffee  mills;  enormous  sheds  full  of  belt  leather,  and  then  the  clever  acting 
machinery  that  has  made  dismantled  sad  irons  no  longer  a  necessity  to  the 


26 


HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  CHATTANOOGA 


shoemaker;  the  oiling  and  drying  apparatus,  and  finally  the  loading  of  the  com- 
pleted stock  for  shipment  to  the  hydraulic  presses  of  Now  York.  The  "  sight" 
repays  a  journey  from  New  England. 

If  time  permits,  visit  the  Blast  Furnace,  examine  its  mighty  blowers,  its  huge 
cupola,  its  seventy  times  heated  "stoves."  its  batteries  of  boilers,  its  storing 
sheds  for  ore,  coke  and  limestone.  But  most  interesting  is  the  making  of  a  cast, 
when  the  molten  iron  rushes  down  a  narrow  channel,  and  is  adroitly  turned  into 
the  "sows,"  which  feed  the  pigs  on  both  sides,  until  thirty  tons  of  the  metal 
lies  steaming  in  its  beds  of  sand.  And  when  the  iron  has  all  run  out,  the  pyro- 
technics that  follow  exceed  anything  possible  to  less  ambitious  appliances.  It 
is  believed  by  some  that  the  attendants  on  such  performances  should  hold  a 
lively  appreciation  of  the  startling  possibilities  of  a  life  of  depravity. 

Now  take  your  carriage  and  drive  out  Montgomery  avenue,  noting  the  hand- 
some public  school  building  recently  erected  for  colored  children.  You  whirl 
over  the  smooth  macadamized  road  until  you  reach  the  great  stone  gateway  of  the 


NATIONAL  CEMETERY. 

As  you  approach  the  sacred  enclosure  the  magnificent  gateway  looms  up 
before  you.  It  is  built  of  Alabama  limestone,  with  an  archway  37  feet  in  height, 
In  which  swings  a  heavy  iron  gate.  This  gateway  cost  $17,000  by  special  con- 
tract. While  you  halt,  as  the  gate  turns  on  its  binges  to  allow  you  ingress,  you 
will  read  the  following  inscription  on  the  entablature: 

NATIONAL  MILITARY  CEMKTRRY. 
CUATTANOOGA,  A.  D.,  1363. 


AND  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN.  27 

Passing  under  the  lofty  arch,  you  again  halt  upon  the  beautiful  white  gravel, 
and,  turning  around,  read  on  the  inside  entablature  this  inscription : 

HERE  REST  IN  PEACE  12,956  CITIZENS, 

WHO  DIED  FOR  THEIR  COUNTRY 

IN  THE  YEARS  1861  TO  1865. 

You  now  drive  slowly  around  the  graveled  walk,  beside  the  dense  and  close- 
clipped  osage  hedge,  which  nearly  conceals  the  well-coped  wall  that  entirely 
surrounds  the  inclosure.  The  cemetery  is  circular,  nearly  one  mile  in  circum- 
ference, and  contains  75i  acres.  It  was  purchased  at  a  cost  of  $15,000.  In  the 
centre  rises  a  knoll  fully  100  feet  above  the  avenue  on  which  you  drive,  and  the 
grounds  slope  down  to  this  exterior  avenue  in  the  most  beautiful  and  undulating 
manner.  It  is  well  covered  with  blue-grass,  which  the  diligent  superintendent 
keeps  closely  shaven.  Ou  these  verdant  slopes  are  nineteen  special  interment 
sections,  each  marked  by  a  small  grauite  obelisk,  and  lettered  A  to  S;  and  these 
are  surrounded  by  the  small  white  marble  head  and  foot-stones.  These  sections 
are  of  different  forms,  in  the  arrangement  of  the  graves,  some  forming  triangles, 
others  oblongs,  others  squares,  others  parallelograms,  and  others  circles,  while 
section  E  forms  a  shield. 

Starting  from  the  gateway  and  turning  to  your  right,  you  will  reach  Section 
S.,  where  are  the  private  monuments  of  Major  T.  J.  Carlile,  Capt.  B.  S.  Nickliu 
and  wife,  Capt.  W.  H.  McDevitt,  Capt,  G.  A.  M.  Estes  and  Dr.  R.  N.  Barr. 

Just  above  this  is  Section  H.,  where,  in  a  semi-circle,  lie  the  ashes  of  the 
seven  men  who  were  hung  for  the  capture  of  the  passenger  locomotive  "Gen- 
eral," at  Big  Shanty,  on  the  Western  &  Atlantic  Railroad,  in  1862.  You  can 
leave  your  carriage  and  go  on  foot  over  the  green  sward  to  this  section,  and 
there  you  will  find  names  on  the  headstoues  thus :  Samuel  Slovins,  S.  Robert- 
son, G.  D.  Wilson,  Marion  Ross,  W.  Campbell,  P.  G.  Shadrach,  John  Scott — all 
of  Ohio. 

On  the  6th  day  of  March,  1889,  the  Legislature  of  Ohio  appropriated  $5,000 
for  the  erection  of  a  monument  to  the  memory  of  these  brave  men.  We  are 
told  they  were  a  picked  company  from  a  large  number,  each  man  being  pecu- 
liarly fitted  for  certain  railway  work.  One  or  more  had  been  locomotive 
engineers,  others  were  firemen,  telegraphers,  and  each  man  knew  just  what  duty 
he  would  be  assigned  to.  The  capture  of  the  engine  and  the  race  from  Big 
Shanty  to  the  point  near  this  city  where  they  abandoned  the  engine  and  took  to 
the  woods  and  were  captured  and  hung  is  well  known  history.  They  took  their 
lives  in  their  hands  and  they  lost  them. 

The  leader  of  this  party,  J.  J.  Andrews,  was  interred  in  this  section  on  Sun- 
day, October  16,  1887,  with  appropriate  ceremonies.  The  writer  of  these  lines 
was  one  of  the  military  witnesses  of  the  death  of  Andrews,  and  he  hereby  bears 
testimony  that  he  died  as  does  a  fearless  man. 

You  will  continue  (on  foot)  while  your  carriage  drives  around  to  meet  you 
before  the  Superintendent's  Lodge,  till  you  reach  the  summit  of  the  knoll.  On 
this  summit  is  the  flag-staff,  on  which  floats  the  Ensign  of  the  Union,  and  the 


28  HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  CHATTANOOGA 

great  brick  rostrum  of  40  x  20  feet  area,  5  feet  high,  with  handsome  cut-stone 
coping  and  an  interior  carpet  ol  velvety  grass.  An  open  roof  of  purloins  and 
joists  is  supported  by  12  square  pillars,  and  these  are  covered  with  the  ivy, 
woodbine  and  climbing  vines  so  plentifully  planted  around  the  base. 

Surrounding  this  rostrum  is  a  close -shaven  lawn,  dotted  with  trees  and 
shrubs,  on  which  stand  on  end  four  immense  cannons.  One  of  these  has  the 
regulation  shield,  in  bronze,  on  which  is  engraved,  in  raised  letters: 

UNITKD  STATES 
NATIONAL  MILITARY  CEMETERY, 

CHATTANOOGA. 
ESTABLISHED.    -    1863. 

The  cemetery  was  established  under  an  order  of  General  Thomas,  issued 
December  25,  1863 

The  records  in  the  Superintendent's  office  give  the  following  details : 

First  interment,  February  18,  1863. 

Officers 204 

White  soldiers,  known 6  804 

White  soldiers,  unknown 4,943—11,747 

Colored  soldiers,  known 885 

Colored  soldiers,  unknown 20 —     905 

Civilians 154 


Total  interments  to  May  15,  1889 13,010 

The  only  large  monument  in  the  cemetery  is  the  one  erected  to  the  Dead  of 
the  4th  Army  Corps,  and  is  a  handsome  marble  obelisk,  rising  from  a  plinth 
properly  inscribed  on  all  sides.  There  are  several  private  monuments.  One  in 
Section  C  to  Lieut.-Col.  J.  B.  Taft,  of  New  York,  and  one  in  Section  F  to  Dr. 
A.  L.  Cox,  of  the  20th  Corps.  In  Section  E  is  one  to  Maj.  S.  F.  McKeehan,  of 
Indiana,  and  one  to  Lieut.  Adam  Lowry,  of  Pennsylvania.  In  Section  A  is  a 
monument  to  Capt.  J.  H.  Lereve,  of  Indiana;  one  to  Col.  G.  de  Mihalotzy,  of 
Illinois,  and  one  to  Capt.  W.  C.  Russell,  A.  A.  G.  In  Section  D  is  a  monument 
to  Capt.  J.  Gunsenhouser,  of  Indiana. 
The  following  is  a 

RECAPITULATION 
By  States  of  the  interments : 


United  States  Regulars 203 

Alabama 38 

Connecticut 20 

Georgia 11 

Illinois 1.103 

Indiana 1  338 

Iowa 187 

Kansas 58 

Kentucky 369 

Maryland 2 

Maine 1 

Massachusetts 73 

Michigan 489 

Minnesota  ..  107 


Missouri 168 

New  Jersey 32 

New  York 346 

Ohio 1,823 

Pennsylvania 198 

Rhode  Island 2 

Tennessee 133 

Wisconsin 238 

West  Virginia 3 

Pioneers 5 

Signal  Corps 3 

Employes 14 

Miscellaneous 5,018 

Colored .  885 


AND  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN. 


29 


The  Government  built  the  macadamized  road  from  Montgomery  avenue  to  the 
Cemetery  gate.  This  is  thirty  feet  wide.  The  right  of  way  is  80  feet  wide,  and 
shade  trees  will  be  planted  on  both  sides  the  entire  distance.  It  is  a  pity  that 
this  drive  is  somewhat  neglected. 

The  total  expense  of  the  Cemetery  up  to  January  1,  1889,  was  $215,000  in 
round  numbers.  It  is  now  the  second  National  Cemetery  in  point  of  beauty,  and 
if  improvements  continue  it  will  soon  be  second  to  none. 

No  visitor  to  Chattanooga  should  fail  to  include  this  lovely  City  of  the  Dead 
in  excursions.  Its  beautiful  lawn,  shade  trees  and  flowering  shrubs,  its  roses 
and  trailing  vines,  make  it  all  that  affection  and  patriotism  could  desire.  It  is 
sad  to  remember  that  thirteen  thousand  brave  men  sleep  beneath  this  emerald 
carpet,  but  the  patriot  finds  consolation  in  the  memory  that  they  died  for  their 
country. 

After  registering  at  the  Superintendent's  lodge,  you  will  resume  your  carriage. 
Passing  under  the  archway  again  you  are  driven  to  the  elevated  site  known  as 
Fort  "Wood,  near  which  stand  the  huge  filters  of  the  water-works.  There,  amid 
piles  of  material  for  the  building  of  the  residences  going  up  all  around,  you 
have  a  very  effective  view  of  the  valley  of  Chattanooga. 

From  Fort  "Wood  you  drive  to  the 


CHATTANOOGA  UNIVERSITY, 

an  imposing  stucture,  which  is  easily  discovered  from  the  cars  of  each  of  the 
railways  that  enter  the  city.     It  is  the  educational  building  erected  by  the 


80 

Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  whose  beautiful  house  of  worship  is  at  the  western 
terminus  of  McCallie  avenue.  This  institution  was  chartered  July  9,  1886,  and 
the  main  building  was  completed  September  16,  1886.  The  first  term  began  on 
September  15th.  It  has  a  full  corps  of  teachers,  and  four  schools  are  organized : 
Academic,  Collegiate  and  Art.  There  is  a  good  library  and  good  apparatus. 
This  school  was  consolidated  with  the  one  at  Athens  in  1889,  and  is  now  known 
as  the  "Grant  Memorial  University."  The  real  estate  and  endowments  of  these 
consolidated  schools  are  put  down  at  $500,000.  "The  University  is  not  operated 
for  financial  profit,  and  uses  its  large  revenues  in  reducing  the  cost  of  an  educa- 
tion to  students." 

The  two-story  brick  building  west  of  the  campus  is  the  "Central  High 
School "  of  the  city  system  of  public  schools.  It  is  more  commodious  than 
beautiful. 

You  can  now  drive  down  the  northern  slope  of  the  college  eminence  and  visit 
the 


COBPKDERATK   CBMKTKRY. 


AND  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN.  31 

There  lie  thousands  of  those  who  wore  the  gray,  beneath  the  shade  of  weep- 
ing willows,  with  graves  unmarked,  while  a  monument,  with  a  shaft  thirty  feet 
in  height,  stands  on  the  highest  spot  in  the  enclosure,  bearing  the  simple  in- 
scription, "Our  Confederate  Dead."  Mrs.  G.  C.  Connor  was  president  of  the 
association  of  ladies  who  built  it,  and  Mr.  "W.  D.  Van  Dyke  was  their  treasurer. 
Maj.  G.  C.  Connor  was  the  designer  of  the  monument.  United  States  troops, 
with  Capt.  Cochran  at  their  head,  entered  this  cemetery  with  reversed  arms,  the 
band  of  his  regiment  (Col.  "Wheaton's)  preceding  them,  and  participated  in  the 
laying  of  the  corner-stone,  which  was  laid  by  Hon.  Jas.  D.  Richardson,  then 
Grand  Master  of  Freemasons,  and  now  member  of  Congress.  The  larger  portion 
of  the  fund  that  reared  this  monument  was  contributed  by  Northern-born  resi- 
dents of  Chattanooga.  Such  is  the  spirit  that  has  animated  our  people  since 
1870.  Such  is  the  spirit  that  animates  the  entire  South  to-day. 

Blot  out  the  lines  that  would  divide 

And  desecrate  our  sod ; 
Bind  close  our  States,  give  us  one  law, 

One  Union  and  one  God. 

And  may  we  not  hope  that  that  spirit  will  spread  until  it  animates  the  entire 
nation,  and  its  government  shall  recognize  in  these  brave  defenders  of  their  prin- 
ciples gallant  citizens  of  the  United  States.  The  grassy,  shaded  necropolis  is 
indeed  a  sacred  memory  of  American  valor. 

From  the  Confederate  Cemetery  you  drive  to  your  hotel  along  Vine  street, 
passing  the  Orphans'  Home,  the  brilliant  edifice  of  the  First  Baptist  Church  and 
the  court-house.  "When  driving  down  Seventh  you  will  turn  into  Market  street. 
You  soon  reach  the 

UNION  PASSENGER  DEPOT. 

All  travelers  admire  this  handsome  depot,  into  which  most  of  the  railways 
run  their  trains.  It  contains  two  waiting-rooms  and  a  ladies'  parlor,  baggage- 
room,  telegraph  office,  ticket  office,  dining-room,  lunch-stand,  kitchen,  and 
seven  handsome  offices  up  stairs.  The  seatings  are  solid  walnut,  elegantly 
finished.  The  mantels  are  slate  and  marble,  and  the  chandeliers  of  modern  de- 
signs. Electric  lamps,  in  addition  to  the  gas,  illuminate  the  building.  The  main 
corridor  is  paved  with  Georgia  marble.  The  front  is  of  Zanesville  pressed  brick, 
with  black  cut  joints,  and  a  fine  clock  decorates  the  cupola.  Two  grass  plats, 
surrounded  by  a  massive  curbing  and  pavement,  lie  between  its  front  and  the 
street.  All  the  conveniences  are  well  up  to  the  demands  of  the  times,  and  the 
city,  as  well  as  the  railways,  are  justly  proud  of  it. 

Should  you  stop  at  the  Stanton,  you  will  go  up  Ninth  street  from  the  Union 
Depot  and  pass  the  place  where  the  Government  is  erecting  the  Custom-house 
on  "Stone  Fort,"  a  lofty  site,  with  solid  rock  foundation.  You  will  reach  en 
route  the 

CENTRAL  RAILWAY  STATION. 

This  spacious  depot  was  erected  by  the  Cincinnati,  New  Orleans  &  Texas  Pa- 
cific Railway  Company.  In  addition  to  the  arrival  and  departure  of  their  own 


32 


HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  CHATTANOOGA 


trains,  those  of  the  East  Tennessee,  Virginia  <fe  Georgia,  of  the  Memphis  <fc 
Charleston,  and  of  the  Chattanooga,  Rome  &  Columbus  stop  there  on  their 
way  in  and  out  of  the  city.  The  open  train  shed  is  supplemented  by  handsome 
waiting-rooms,  lunch-stand  and  all  modern  comforts. 

You  are  now  ready  for  dinner,  and  there  are  three  first-class  hotels,  that  are 
supplemented  by  a  large  number  of  smaller  ones,  in  which  you  can  obtain  it.  A. 
tour  of  the  Industries  may  be  made  after  you  are  refreshed. 


AND  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN.  33 


EXCURSIONS  TO  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN. 


There  are  three  routes  to  the  Summit  of  historic  Lookout— one,  the  oldest,  by 
carriage  up  the  well-kept  St.  Elmo  Turnpike,  another  up  the  standard  gauge 
"Lookout  Mountain  Railroad,"  and  the  other  up  the  "Incline" — and  along  the 
Narrow  Gauge  to  Sunset  Rock. 

1.  BY  CARRIAGE  UP  ST.  ELMO  TURNPIKE. 

Taking  your  carriage  early  in  the  morning,  you  will  drive  out  Whiteside 
street,  by  the  murky  stacks  of  Lookout  Rolling  Mill,  the  Stove  and  the  Pipe 
Works,  and  in  full  view  of  the  busy  valley  and  its  hundred  factories,  crossing  on 
the  tall  iron  bridge  over  Chattanooga  Creek,  while  you  gaze  at  the  projecting 
mass  called  the  "Point,"  now  clearly  defined  against  the  western  sky. 

Having  reached  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  you  begin  the  ascent  of  the  St. 
Elmo  road.  You  drive  by  easy  grades  to  the  bluff  overlooking  Cascade  Glen; 
then  you  descend  to  the  bridge  that  crosses  the  brook,  dashing  along  its  rocky, 
precipitous  bottom  to  the  valley  beyond.  The  ascent  grows  steeper  over  the 
remainder  of  the  road,  while  passing  in  full  view  of  the  glen,  every  foot  of 
which  reveals  new  beauties  and  wonders.  When  you  reach  the  summit  you 
debouch  on  the  regular  mountain  road.  Then  you  look  back  into  the  glen,  and 
gaze  on  its  silvery  brook,  rushing  over  abrupt  precipices,  winding  around  im- 
mense bowlders,  or  singing  along  over  its  pebbly  bottom  till  it  is  lost  in  the 
dense  foliage  beyond  the  bridge.  On  either  side  the  precipitous  mountains  close 
in  the  view,  and  on  a  spur  which  projects  into  the  glen,  on  the  south  side,  you 
catch  a  glimpse  of  the  old  United  States  Hospital,  on  its  lofty  perch,  and  ex- 
claim, as  thousands  have  done  before,  "  What  a  lovely  spot  for  a  hotel." 

Having  reached  the  summit,  you  instruct  the  driver  to  turn  his  horses  toward 
Rock  City.  The  drive  is  not  as  smooth  as  a  boulevard,  but  its  very  ruggedness 
adds  to  your  enjoyment  of  the  scenery.  You  dash  along  between  the  trees, 
when  suddenly  you  are  in  fall  view  of  the  ruins  of  the  immense  wooden  build- 
ings erected  for  a  hospital  by  General  Thomas,  in  1864-5,  at  a  cost  of  $285,000, 
when  General  King  was  encamped  with  the  15th,  16th,  18th  and  19th  regulars  on 
the  camp  ground  west  of  Rock  City,  and  through  the  ruined  chimneys  of  which 
you  will  pass  en  route  to  Lulu  Lake.  At  the  close  of  the  war  these  buildings 
were  purchased  by  the  philanthropist,  Mr.  Robert,  and  used  as  a  school  for  boys 
and  girls.  The  venture  proved  a  failure,  and  the  school  was  closed.  Then  the 
buildings  were  removed,  little  by  little,  until  scarcely  any  remain. 

Having  passed  over  the  branch  of  Cascade  Glen,  and  ascended  to  the  ridge  on 
which  stood  this  big  building,  you  turn  to  the  left  into  an  almost  abandoned 
road  that  leads  you  to  the  northern  entrance  of 

ROCK  VILLAGE. 

You  descend  from  your  carriage  and  walk  through  a  stone  gateway  that  is 
formed  by  two  rocks  sixty  feet  high  and  fifty  feet  apart,  each  surmounted  by  a 


34  HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  CHATTANOOGA 

cone  resembling  a  sentinel.  Stopping  a  moment  at  the  round-table,  you  pass 
under  the  broken  arch,  leaving  the  "Witches  Grotto,"  on  your  left,  and  pres- 
ently you  are  in  the  "  Coliseum,"  its  massive  ruins  lying  about  in  endless  con- 
fusion. Your  carriage  has  gone  around  by  the  highlands,  and  awaits  you  in  tho 
"  suburbs." 

Yov  now  stroll  down  the  graveled  walk  and  halt  at  Payne's  Spring,  gushing 
from  a  square  opening  in  the  rock,  and  taste  its  cool,  freestone  water.  Then 
you  walk  around  some  more  "ruins,"  and  turn  to  the  ''Point,''  from  which  you 
can  look  up  Payne's  Ravine,  on  the  left,  its  rocky  walls  pierced  by  numerous 
caves.  On  your  right,  the  beautiful  valley,  hundreds  of  feet  below,  tempts  you 
to  descend  to  its  green  shadiness.  Returning,  you  pass  between  the  "  Sisters" 
and  the  immense  conglomerate,  perched  on  one  leg,  called  the  "Pedestal.' 
Here  you  see  the  "  Ostrich  Egg,"  which  some  fool  soldiers  overturned  during  the 
war,  and  just  beyond  is  the  immense  mass  called  "  Elephant  Rock." 

Avoiding  the  prickly  cactus,  which  pierce  your  gloves  and  hands  if  you  touch 
them,  and  feasting  your  eyes  on  the  exquisite  mosses,  ferns  and  lichens,  you  bid 
adieu  to  the  suburbs  of  Rock  Village,  re-euter  your  carriage,  and  drive  over  to 

ROCK  CITY. 

A  short  walk  between  the  trees  brings  you  to  the  "  Grand  Corridor,"  the  walls 
of  which  exclude  the  rays  of  the  sun.  You  enter  the  narrow  streets,  whose 
mighty  walls  are  conglomerate,  and  which  are  washed  entirely  smooth,  rising 
sixty  feet  in  height,  and  in  many  cases  closing  to  less  than  a  foot's  distance 
apart. 

One  street  leads  up  to  the  "Fat  Man's  Misery,"  a  narrow  and  precipitous 
pass  to  the  summit  of  the  rocky  battlements.  If  unable  to  ascend  this  pass,  you 
can  return  and  go  around  by  the  path  you  entered ;  but  if  you  are  small  and  spry 
enough  to  ascend  there,  you  can  walk  along  the  battlements,  jumping  over  the 
deep  crevices  between  there  and  "Rook  City  Bluff'."  This  is  the  wildest  view 
on  the  mountain,  overlooking  the  valley  of  Chattanooga,  hundreds  of  feet  below. 
It  gives  you  a  glimpse  of  the  battle-fields  of  Chickarnauga  and  Missionary  Ridge, 
and  an  excellent  view  of  Chattanooga  and  of  the  Tennessee  River. 

After  testing  the  seats  and  niches  of  this  bluff,  you  can  visit  the  "  Smoking 
Parlor,"  which  is  formed  by  an  overhanging  rock,  with  convenient  seats  scat- 
tered about.  You  next  descend  to  "Rock  City  Avenue"  through  a  narrow 
gateway,  and  find  tfce  street  covered  with  loam,  well  shaded  with  elms  and  pop- 
lars, streams  crossing  it  at  various  points,  while  narrow  streets  from  other  parts 
of  the  city  oorne  in  through  its  tall  conglomerate  walls  in  a  number  of  places. 
This  is  a  favorite  resort  for  picnic  parties,  being  cool,  well  shaded,  and  supplied 
with  delicious  water.  About  one  hundred  yards  from  its  southern  entrance  is 
the  "Anvil  Rock." 

Prom  this  southern  entrance  you  can  drive  to  Chickamauga  Bluff  (a  mile 
•way),  over  which  pours  a  stream  of  crystal  water  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
perpendicular,  and  from  which  point  you  can  see  distant  Eagle  Cliff,  and  Lulu 
Falls,  the  latter  gleaming  in  the  sunlight  like  a  ribbon  of  silver. 

You  may  now  drive  back  by  Rock  City  and  out  between  the  ruins  of  the 


AND  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN.  80 

chimneys  of  the  Camping  Ground,  and  turn  your  horses  toward  Lulu  Lake. 
Take  the  upper,  or  right-hand  road,  which  is  a  very  fair  mountain  highway. 
You  pass  the  "Georgia  Chalybeate  Springs,"  and  soon  after  passing  "Two  Mile 
Tree"  you  reach  Jackson's  Hill,  where  charming  glimpses  are  obtained  of  the 
Chattanooga  and  Lookout  valleys  on  either  side,  and  the  white  walls  of  the 
buildings  around  ancient  Summer  Town.  In  front  you  behold  lofty  High  Point 
and  Rising  Fawn  Bluff,  resembling  a  cross  range  of  mountains.  Over  "rough 
and  rugged  ways  "  you  continue  until  at  last  you  reach 

LULA  LAKE  AND  "WOODBINE  FALLS. 

Quitting  your  carriage  at  the  site  of  a  once  popular  refreshment  booth,  you 
will  descend  to  the  rocky  banks  of  Rock  Creek,  which  pours  down  through  lofty 
ledges,  between  mountains  rising  up  into  the  clouds,  and  halt  at  "Woodbine 
Falls,  a  sloping  ledge,  about  thirty  feet  high,  down  which  the  brook  pours  into 
the  blue  waters  of  the  circular  basin  called  Lulu  Lake.  In  spring  the  woodbine 
and  honeysuckle  bloom  here  in  great  profusion.  You  walk  carefully  along  the 
northern  ledge  until  you  reach  a  projecting  cliff  of  the  stone  wall,  that  looks 
down  upon  the  stream,  three  hundred  feet  below.  Here  you  take  a  rocky  seat 


SADDLE  ROCK. 

and  feast  your  eyes  on  the  sublime  scene.  Just  above  is  the  little  brook  pouring 
•down  "Woodbine  Falls  into  a  circular  basin  resembling  an  inverted  washbowl, 
about  two  hundred  feet  in  circumference,  and  over  fifty  feet  deep.  After  caress- 
ing the  crystal  lakelet,  this  scurrying  brook  escapes  from  the  east  side,  rushes 


36  HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  CHATTANOOGA 

along  a  shelving  channel  and  pours  over  a  tall,  curved  precipice  in  silvery  white- 
ness, forming  the  beautiful  Lulu  Falls,  which  you  saw  from  Chickamauga  Bluff. 
On  the  left  are  Chickamauga  Bluff  and  Eagle  Cliff,  and  the  valley  of  Chicka- 
mauga is  seen  through  the  wildest  of  ravines,  that  begins  at  your  feet. 

Many  prefer  to  cross  the  brook  above  Woodbine  Falls  and  follow  the  path- 
way around  the  lake  and  the  point  to  the  base  of  the  falls.  Such  can  enter  be- 
neath the  falls  a  capacious  cavern,  an  exceedingly  refreshing  spot  on  a  summer's 
day. 

After  feasting  your  eyes  on  this  wild,  weird  scene,  you  resume  your  carriage 
and  turn  homewards.  Having  reached  the  road  that  leads  to  the  "Natural 
Bridge"  you  will  drive  there  at  once. 

The  "Natural  Bridge"  property  belongs  to  the  Spiritualists,  who  have 
erected  there  an  amphitheatre  in  which  to  hold  their  summer  conventions. 
The  "Bridge,"  the  "Old  Man  of  the  Mountain"  and  the  "Telephone  Rock"  are 
attractions  and  worthy  of  a  visit. 

From  the  "Natural  Bridge"  you  can  walk  over  to  the  Broad  Gauge  Railroad 
and  ride  down  to  the  park,  or  you  can  continue  on  with  your  carriage  to  the 
southern  terminus  of  the  Narrow  Gauge,  just  above  Sunset  Rock. 

2.     BY  THE  STANDARD  GAUGE  RAILROAD. 

You  will  go  to  the  Union  depot  and  board  a  train  of  the  Union,  or  Belt, 
Railroad  early  in  the  morning  if  you  desire  to  make  the  entire  tour  of  the  moun- 
tain. It  will  be  prudent,  if  you  intend  visiting  the  "city"  and  the  lake,  to  tele- 
phone from  your  hotel  to  have  a  carriage  in  waiting  when  your  train  arrives  at 
the  Lookout  Mountain  House  on  the  summit. 

You  will  be  comfortably  conveyed  through  the  valley,  and  by  the  pretty 
suburb,  St.  Elmo,  and  delivered  at  Mountain  Junction  in  twenty  minutes. 
There  a  climbing  locomotive,  equipped  with  all  the  appliances  of  strength  and 
safety — things  so  necessary  to  mountain  climbing— will  seize  hold  of  your  coach 
and  dash  away  with  it  up  the  bosom  of  the  lofty  hill  at  a  speed  of  twenty  miles 
an  hour.  The  ascent  is  thrilling.  First,  a  glimpse  of  St.  Elmo,  then  a  look  of 
a  few  minutes'  duration  at  that  solemnly  beautiful  city  of  the  dead,  called  For- 
est Hills;  presently  a  vision  of  the  valley,  and  of  its  suburbs  leaning  against 
Missionary  Ridge,  and  then  Chattanooga,  reaching  out  to  possess  the  land,  which 
the  broad,  gently  flowing  river  has  limited  only  for  a  season. 

Up  and  up  and  up  races  the  iron  horse,  until  he  dashes  into  the  field  of  the 
"  Battle  Above  the  Clouds."  There  it  shrieks  a  halt,  and  cutting  loose  hurriea 
to  the  rear  of  your  coach.  Again  it  ascends,  but  in  the  opposite  direction,  and 
its  speed  is  not  slackened.  The  galleried  "Point  Hotel"  hangs  out  threaten- 
ingly upon  a  terrace  200  feet  above,  and  the  sheer  precipices  frown  their  disap- 
probation of  this  noisy  intrusion.  Their  immensity  fills  you  with  awe.  The 
ladies  on  the  galleries  of  the  summer  cottages,  on  the  lower  terrace,  more  hos- 
pitable than  the  beetling  cliffs,  wave  their  welcome  to  these  lofty  eyries  with 
handkerchiefs  and  veils.  And  while  you  return  the  salutations  the  train  dashes 
under  the  trestle  of  the  "Incline"  and  speeds  upward  with  quick  pulsation! 


AND  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN.  37 

until  it  rounds  the  bluff  where  stands  "Lookout  Mountain  House"  and  its 
smiling  cottages.  The  giant  halts  and  you  may  alight. 

You  will  now  repair  to  the  hotel  and  secure  your  carriage,  as  aforesaid,  if 
you  intend  visiting  Rock  City  and  Lulu  Lake.  But  before  starting  walk  over  to 
the  bluff,  on  which  stands  a  pretty  summer-house.  There  you  have  a  charming 
view  of  the  valley,  with  the  low  line  of  Missionary  Ridge  on  the  east,  and  of 
the  silvery  river  laving  the  feet  of  the  city  towards  the  north.  Beyond  Mission- 
ary Kidge  are  the  foot  hills  that  recall  Chickamauga. 

On  this  spot  is  frequently  seen  a  remarkable  phenomenon  at  sunrise.  The 
valley  is  then  filled  up  with  a  dense  fog,  entirely  concealing  it  and  the  city, 
though  not  reaching  quite  up  to  the  level  of  your  point  of  observation.  The 
sun,  rising  over  Missionary  Ridge,  gives  the  white  mist  the  appearance  of  the 
ocean,  its  waves  rolling  over  the  ridges,  while  the  higher  peaks  of  the  foot  hills 
loom  up  like  islands  in  an  Archipelago.  The  scene  is  indescribably  lovely. 

In  the  afternoons  of  summers  there  are  other  visions  of  loveliness,  and  which 
are  never  seen  outside  of  such  environments.  Seated  on  this  bluff  you  will  fre- 
quently discover  wreaths  .of  vapor  gracefully  ascending  here  and  there  in  the 
sunshine,  to  be  kissed  by  cooling  breezes,  and  descend  in  showers  of  pearls. 
The  writer  has  counted  as  many  as  fifteen  of  those  sunshine  showers  falling  at 
one  time  in  the  valley  beneath  you,  each  shower  bedewing  an  area  of  only  a  few 
hundred  yards.  The  rainbow  effects  which  sometimes  accompany  these  showers 
are  like  those  that  were  known  to  Solomon,  when  he  said,  "It  compasseth  the 
heaven  about  with  a  glorious  circle,  and  the  hands  of  the  Most  High  have  bended 
it."  He  who  would  attempt  to  paint  such  beauty  must  first  dip  his  brush  in 
dyes  of  heaven. 

To  visit  Rock  City  and  Lulu  Lake  follow  the  directions  given  in  Route  No.  1. 
But  if  you  do  not  wish  to  drive  there  you  can  stroll  along  the  brow  of  the  moun- 
tain, or  go  over  to  the  "Natural  Bridge  House"  on  foot. 

If  you  do  not  alight  from  the  train  at  Lookout  Mountain  House  your  train 
will  whirl  you  over  a  tall  trestle,  beyond  the  Natural  Bridge  House,  with  its 
cottages  and  amphitheater,  until  the  site  of  the  park  is  reached,  in  which  they 
are  erecting  a  magnificent  hotel. 

From  the  park  station  you  go  on  foot  to  the  "Point."  Do  not  halt  at  "Rock 
Bluff";  it  will  mar  the  effects  of  the  vision  at  the  "Point."  Neither  should 
you  stop  to  climb  "Observation  Rock,"  or  insist  upon  having  a  glimpse  from 
"Signal  Rock."  Do  not  indulge  more  than  a  glance  at  curious  "Umbrella 
Rock,"  but  rush  right  down  to  the  "  Point."  There  you  will  be  entranced. 

And  before  we  speak  of  the  "Point"  let  us  inhale  a  fragrant  breath  of  these 
glorious  mountains.  Surely  the  prophecy  of  the  wrapt  Isaiah  is  here  fulfilled  : 
Tea,  verily,  the  mountains  and  the  hills  break  forth  into  singing,  and  all  the 
trees  of  the  valley  do  clap  their  hands  for  joy.  These  lofty  hills  raise  their 
voices  to  the  heavens,  while  the  vales  around,  with  their  groves  and  streams, 
and  human  life,  resound  the  notes,  and  "Let  us  worship  God,"  they  say  with 
solemn  sound. 


447932 


HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  CHATTANOOGA 
POINT." 


38 


Nothing  short  of  the  divinely  imparted  descriptive  afflatus  is  sufficient  DOTT. 
The  view  is  unobstructed — beautiful,  sublime.  Down  from  the  mountains  of 
East  Tennessee,  North  Carolina  and  Virginia  flows  the  broad  Tennessee,  gleam- 
ing in  silvery  whiteness  through  the  purple  haze  that  hangs  over  the  hills,  and 
lovingly  entering  the  valley  that  lies  at  your  feet.  The  piers  of  the  Cincinnati 
railway  bridge  show  you  where  Sherman  crossed  that  river  and  scaled  the  heights 
the  morning  of  the  battle  of  Missionary  Ridge.  Bejond  the  flag  that  floats 
%bove  the  National  City  of  the  Dead  is  Orchard  Knob,  the  headquarters  of  Grant, 


AND  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN  39 

and  on  the  Ridge,  due  east  of  where  you  stand,  a  lone  tree  marks  the  site  of  the 
headquarters  of  Bragg.  What  memories  these  historic  spots  recall ! 

In  front  of  your  lofty  observatory  is  "Moccasin  Bend,"  which  the  river  haa 
formed  from  the  tongue  of  land  that  separates  Chattanooga  from  the  ridges  on 
the  west.  Note  the  toe,  the  heel,  the  ankle,  the  almost  perfect  image  of  the 
Indian  shoe.  In  the  early  summer  the  fields  of  waving  grain,  interspersed  with 
patches  of  meadow  and  shade,  give  impressions  of  a  beautiful  garden,  fenced 
with  silver,  and  guarded  from  rude  approach  of  storms  by  forest-clad  hills  just 
above  the  ankle.  Many  a  lady  has  exclaimed,  "It  is  an  exquisite  crazy  quilt," 
and  not  a  few  masculines  have  poetically  declared,  "It  is  Eden." 

Between  you  and  the  city,  which  spreads  out  around  the  base  of  Cameron 
Hill— its  avenues  and  public  buildings  plainly  visible,  its  very  house  signs  being 
easily  read  with  a  glass — is  the  manufacturing  district,  the  smoke  of  whose  fac- 
tories form  a  veil  over  the  houses  of  the  operatives.  Ah !  there  is  the  source  of 
Chattanooga's  prosperity,  and  we  will  go  with  you  to  these  factories  to-morrow. 
Let  us  further  scan  the  landscape. 

On  the  northern  extremity  of  Missionary  Eidge  we  can  detect  among  the 
heavy  foliage  the  cottages  and  church  spire  of  "Sherman  Heights,"  the  farthest 
away  of  our  suburbs.  Just  a  little  beyond,  at  the  base,  is  the  village  of  Boyce, 
the  junction  of  the  Cincinnati  Southern  and  the  "Western  &  Atlantic  Railways. 
Nearer  in  are  the  cottages  of  "Stanley  Town,"  a  suburb  set  apart  to  colored 
people  exclusively.  Foaming  up  on  the  bosom  of  the  ridge  is  the  pretty  suburb 
of  Ridgedale,  and  as  you  peer  through  the  haze,  just  over  the  beetling  cliff  be- 
yond the  photograph  gallery  you  catch  a  glimpse  of  pretty  East  Lake,  Chatta- 
nooga's favorite  valley  resort  in  the  summer.  Perhaps  your  eye  can  follow  the 
train  of  the  Union  Railway  as  it  winds  around  the  lake  on  its  way  back  to  the  city. 

No  pen,  no  matter  how  deeply  dipped  in  romance,  poetry  and  imagination, 
can  describe  the  landscape  you  now  behold.  N"or  is  it  in  limner's  power  to 
transfer  to  canvas  this  prospect  of  hills  and  vales,  of  streams  and  lawns,  of 
spires  and  factories,  for  the  scene  is  ever  changing,  ever  new ;  and  with  its  shad- 
ing of  sun  and  cloud  never  like  what  it  was  an  hour  before.  There  are  loftier 
mountains,  more  sublime  stretches  of  precipice  and  beetling  cliff,  taller  peaks 
and  deeper  gorges,  but  there  is  no  spot  on  this  western  world  where  beauty  is  so 
charmingly  united  to  sublimity,  and  where  one's  soul  is  so  thrilled  without  being 
awed  by  appalling  surroundings. 

Glance  at  the  two  pretty  streams  that  bend  and  curve  through  the  valleys 
on  each  side  of  you  and  empty  their  excess  of  fructifying  blessings  into  the  river 
in  front ;  look  away  beyond  Sunset  Rock  to  the  last  of  the  Appalachian  hills 
vanishing  on  the  plains  of  Alabama,  and  then  look  up  to  the  great  plateau  of  the 
Cumberland,  where  is  established  the  University  of  the  South,  and  the  Southern 
Chautauqua — Monteagle.  This  mountain  wall  divides  Tennessee  into  Eastern 
and  Middle.  Turn  around,  and  the  mountains  you  see  away  to  the  north  and 
east  are  in  Yinginia,  the  Carolinas  and  Georgia.  Directly  eastward,  and  beyond 
Missionary  Ridge,  are  the  mountains  that  bound  the  battle-field  of  Chickamauga 
and  through  which  Sherman  marched  and  fought  to  Atlanta.  Five  States  com- 
pose this  glorious  panorama. 


40 


HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  CHATTANOOGA 


•  AND  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN.  41 

On  the  west  the  mountain  wall  is  pierced  by  a  gateway,  through  which  the 
Tennessee  flows  out  of  this  valley  on  its  way  to  the  sea.  Reluctantly  does  this 
mountain  give  it  passage,  for  the  broken  edges  of  the  chasm  abut  right  on  the 
water's  edge  for  miles.  And  the  river  itself  appears  to  leave  with  equal  reluc- 
tance, while  it  forms  an  island-heart  as  a  symbol  of  its  affection  lor  the  vale  it  is 
Jeaving.  And  ever  and  anon  this  seemingly  gentle  stream  rises  up  to  emphasize 
its  affection  for  the  enchanted  valley,  by  embracing  the  lowlands  and  bathing 
the  dusty  feet  of  the  highlands.  Thousands  annually  reciprocate  this  affection 
by  floating  on  its  placid  bosom,  in  excursions,  through  the  exquisite  scenery  its 
channel  has  created. 

While  you  gaze  on  all  this  loveliness  you  can  scarcely  bo  persuaded  that 
twenty-five  years  ago  these  now  peaceful  valleys  were  filled  with  armed  men, 
thirsting  for  each  others  blood ;  and  that  up  the  slope  of  that  mountain  where 
now  are  white  houses,  orchards  and  vineyards,  these  same  armed  men  rushed 
through  a  storm  of  iron  hail.  But  the  emerald  green  knoll  over  yonder, 
with  wall  and  massive  gateway,  and  dotted  with  specks  of  white  marble,  tell 
the  story  of  those  terrible  days.  And  that  melancholy  story  is  continued  in  an- 
other green  spot,  shaded  by  elms  and  willows,  near  the  bank  of  the  river.  There 
the  heroes  of  the  blue  and  the  grey  await  the  resurrection  trump. 

Leaving  the  "Point,"  you  take  the  pathway  that  leads  by  the  "Umbrella" 
to  the  stairs  that  descend  from  Roper's  Rock.  Descending  these  steps  and  the 
rugged  pathway  you  quickly  reach  the  platform  of  the  Narrow  Gauge  Railway, 
and  the  lower  gallery  of  Lookout  Point  Hotel.  Prom  this  platform  you  will 
take  the  train  for 

SUNSET  ROOK. 

Lookout  Valley,  with  its  green  fields,  white  houses,  meandering  brooks  and 
iron  highways,  is  in  full  view  from  the  windows  of  your  car.  The  Tennessee 
disappears  just  as  a  locomotive  screams  good-bye  while  the  train  hurries  away 
into  Alabama. 

Soon  you  reach  the  Rock,  which  is  projected  boldly  out  from  the  mountain, 
and  on  which  a  photograph  gallery  is  securely  anchored.  Prom  this  point,  in 
mid-air,  the  Confederates  watched  the  Federals  maneuvering  for  the  relief  of  the 
garrison  of  Chattanooga.  And  here  is  frequently  seen  as  brilliant  sunsets  as 
occur  in  any  part  of  the  world.  In  certain  kinds  of  weather  the  vision  of  the 
god  of  day  descending  beyond  lofty  Cumberland,  to  lay  aside  his  robes,  is  pecu- 
liarly beautiful.  The  sun  always  descends  slowly  and  regularly  until  half  its 
disc  is  concealed,  and  then  it  seems  instantly  to  drop  out  of  sight,  as  if  to  con- 
ceal its  blushes  over  this  exposure  of  his  couch. 

During  the  summer  evening*,  when  storms  gather  about  the  mountains,  the 
sunsets  are  most  beautiful.  The  writer  has  seen  several  of  these ;  one  he  remem- 
bers most  vividly.  While  he  stood  gazing  at  the  contending  elements  the  black 
cloud  which  veiled  the  sun  suddenly  parted,  revealing  beyond  a  vista  of  cloudy 
embankments  a  gloriously  illuminated  chamber  of  purple  and  gold,  which  grad- 
ually expanded,  changing  its  tints,  until  the  whole  became  a  heavenly  landscape, 
through  which,  we  fancied,  could  bo  seen  flowing  the  pellucid  water  of  the 


42 


HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  CHATTANOOGA  . 


Hirer  of  Life.  And  while  we  stood  entranced,  oblivious  to  surroundings,  there 
descended  a  gauzy  veil,  leaving  in  front  of  it  an  avenue  of  crystal  and  azure, 
bounded  by  walls  of  gold  and  sapphire.  The  next  moment  there  drooped  upon 
these  walls  banners  of  scarlet  and  purple.  They  remained  but  a  minute,  when 
all  vanished.  The  sun  had  gone  entirely  out  of  sight. 

Ascending  to  the  railway  station  yon  again  enter  the  coach  and  are  whirled 
hack  to  the  Point  along  the  terrace  cut  out  of  the  bosom  of  the  mountain,  sheer 
precipices  frowning  above  you,  deep  gorges  yawning  beneath  you.  The  rule  is 
short  but  thrilling,  and  the  impressions  you  receive  will  never  be  effaced. 

The  train  halts  at  the  hotel,  which  stands  upon  solid  rock,  each  story  having 
a  broad  gallery,  from  which  the  guests  feast  their  eyes  on  the  beauties  above, 
below  and  around  them.  During  all  seasons  of  tho  year  the  views  from  this 
particular  spot  are  charming. 

THE  INCLINE  RAILWAY. 

You  are  now  at  the  head  of  the  Incline,  and  its  pretty  car  awaits  you.  The 
seats  are  parallel  to  the  rails,  but  are  raised  in  parquet  style,  so  that  passengers 
may  see  over  each  others  heads.  The  faces  of  the  passengers  are  toward  the 
east,  whether  ascending  or  descending.  Two  great  ropes  of  steel  sweep  ilong 


•ROCK  CITY." 


AND  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN.  43 

the  sheaves  between  the  rails,  one  drawing  your  car  downward,  the  other  draw- 
ing a  corresponding  car  upward.  While  you  gaze  a  sensation  akin  to  floating  in 
air  seizes  upon  you,  and  you  feel  exhilarated.  The  pleasure  continues  even 
when  you  reach  precipitous  "Jacob's  Ladder,"  for  you  are  certain  of  the  safety 
of  the  machinery.  You  pass  the  ascending  car,  and  salute  its  occupants,  and 
once  more  look  out  over  the  beautiful  valley.  Soon  you  see  the  breath  of  white 
steam  arising  from  the  building  at  the  foot  of  the  Incline,  in  the  tower  of  which 
you  discover  the  engineer  who  guides  your  car.  The  engines  and  hoisting  ma- 
chinery are  beneath  his  feet. 

From  the  Incline  station  you  can  return  by  horse  car  to  the  city,  passing  in 
full  view  of  the  South  Tredegar  Iron  "Works,  the  Abbattoir,  Tannery,  Blast  Fur- 
nace, the  handsome  residences  on  College  Hill  and  East  Terrace,  th«  Palace 
Hotel  and  Head  House,  and  alight  at  the  Union  Passenger  Depot. 

3.     BY  THE  INCLINE  AND  NARROW  GAUGE. 

Yon  take  horse  cars  that  pass  in  front  of  the  Union  Passenger  Depot  These 
will  deliver  you,  in  summer  time,  at  the  station  of  the  Lookout  Incline.  Taking 
the  cosy  little  car  the  ascent  is  made  with  your  face  looking  down  the  track, 
the  floor  of  the  car  being  parallel  to  the  rails.  As  you  ascend  you  catch  glimpses 
of  St.  Elmo,  of  the  hills  topped  with  cottages  above  East  Lake,  and  then  of 
Chattanooga  and  the  Tennessee.  In  a  few  minutes  you  are  on  the  lower  gallery 
of  the  company's  large  hotel. 

From  these  galleries  you  have  an  exquisite  view  of  the  valley  and  of  the  cot- 
tages and  gardens  of  the  field  of  the 

"BATTLE  ABOVE  THE  CLOUDS." 

It  would  seem  a  pity  to  spoil  the  poetic  battle  which  war  correspondents  cre- 
ated out  of  the  skirmish  that  occurred  on  this  open  space,  with  its  fringe  of 
woods  concealing  the  tall  precipice  that  overhangs  the  Nashville,  Chattanooga 
&  St.  Louis  Railway,  as  it  skirts  the  river  on  its  outward  passage  to  the  valley 
on  your  left.  The  story  related  by  Gen.  Hooker  in  his  report  (Conduct  of  the 
War,  p.  167)  would  be  amusing  to  you  now  as  you  gaze  upon  this  peaceful 
spot.  Hooker  says : 

"After  two  or  three  short  but  sharp  conflicts  the  plateau  was  cleared,  the 
enemy,  with  his  reinforcements,  driven  from  the  walls  and  pits  around  Craven's 
house,  the  last  point  at  which  he  could  make  a  stand  in  force,  and,  all  broken 
and  dismayed,  were  hurled  over  the  rocks  and  precipices  into  the  valley." 

What  became  of  those  "rocks  and  precipices"  over  which  Fighting  Joe 
hurled  those  ill-fated  Confederates  is  a  question  that  not  even  the  "Bohemian" 
is  able  to  answer.  The  facts  seem  to  be  about  as  follows : 

On  November  23,  1863,  Gen.  Hooker's  corps  encamped  in  the  valley  west  of 
where  you  stand.  A  battery  of  rifled  guns  was  planted  on  Moccasin  Bend,  in 
front.  The  Federal  army  occupied  the  city  of  Chattanooga.  The  Confederates 
were  in  possession  of  Lookout  Mountain  top,  and  occupied  the  pallisades  and 
the  plateau  beneath  yon,  the  valley  on  the  east  and  Missionary  Ridge. 


44 


HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  CHATTANOOGA 


About  11  o'clock  of  the  morning  of  the  24th  the  battery  on  Moccasin  Bend 
opened  furiously  on  the  Confederates  in  the  valley,  while  Honker  advanced  from 
the  west.  Skirmishing  soon  began  on  the  western  side  of  the  mountain,  while  a 
cloud  slowly  settled  down  upon  the  Confedrates,  on  the  plateau,  entirely  con- 
cealing them  from  the  Federals.  The  Federals  were  not  discovered  by  the  Con- 
federate brigade  at  Craven's  house  until  they  were  only  a  few  yards  away.  For 
about  half  an  hour  the  Confederate  general— Walthal — kept  up  a  sort  of  running 
fire,  slowly  falling  back  until  fully  one-half  of  his  men  were  made  prisoners. 
Very  few  were  killed  on  either  side,  owing  to  darkness,  the  movements  occurring 
in  the  cloud  and  not  above  it.  The  firing  of  artillery  on  the  Moccasin  and  from 
Fort  Negly,  near  Chattanooga,  gave  Gen.  Hooker  his  idea  of  the  "roar  of  bat- 
tle," and  yet  Geu.  Grant  correctly  states  it  when  he  says  "there  was  no  battle 
fought  on  Lookout  Mountain."  During  the  night  firing  was  kept  up,  at  short 
intervals,  as  the  Confederates  evacuated  the  mountain,  along  what  is  now  called 
the  "old  road,"  seen  on  your  right;  and  when  the  morning  dawned  the  flag  of 
the  Union  floated  from  the  Point,  having  been  planted  there  by  a  member  of  the 
8th  Kentucky  Regiment  just  at  dawn.  In  addition  to  the  heavy  fog  which  cov- 
ered the  valley  during  the  entire  night,  there  was  an  eclipse  of  the  moon. 

Taking  the  Narrow  Gauge  coach  you  are  carried  along  the  bosom  of  the 
mountain,  where,  from  the  valley  beneath,  the  train  resembles  a  tin  toy  of 


LULU  I.AKH, 


AND  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN.  45 

Christmas  days,  and  presently  you  reach  Sunset  Rock,  which  is  described  in 
Route  2. 

From  Sunset  Rock  you  can  take  carriage  for  "Natural  Bridge"  and  for  Rock 
City  and  Lulu  Lake,  returning  to  the  city  by  the  Broad  Gauge  Railway,  if  you 
prefer. 

This  is  but  a  hasty  examination  of  Historic  Lookout,  and  is  prepared  for  tour- 
ists, who  are  always  in  a  hurry.  Those  who  have  leisure  can  spend  weeks  upon 
its  lofty  summit,  enjoying  its  breezes  in  summer  time,  and  its  dry  air  in  winter. 
They  can  dream  of  the  Indian  possession ;  yes,  of  the  Indians  who  came  and  dis- 
appeared before  the  Cherokees,  and  can  read  the  story  of  the  Cherokee  possession 
and  ejectment.  And  then  they  can  visit  the  camping  grounds  of  the  armies  of 
the  Union  and  of  the  Confederacy ;  the  site  of  the  great  hospital,  and  of  the 
corn  mill  that  stood  at  the  head  of  the  glen,  when  the  Western  Republic  was 
passing  under  the  tribulum  of  disintegration.  Though  the  writer  wore  the  grey, 
and  has  ever  been  true  to  the  sunny  land  of  his  adoption,  he  never  visits  this 
mountain  without  thanking  God  that  there  is  but  one  Country,  one  Union,  one 
Constitution  ;  and  offering  a  silent  prayer  that  He  will  continue  in  the  future,  as 
He  has  done  in  the  past,  to  take  care  of  His  own. 


HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  CHATTANOOGA 


AND  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN.  47 


THE  BATTLE-FIELDS. 


The  three  battles  of  the  war  for  the  preservation  of  the  Union  which  have 
made  this  section  famous  are — in  the  order  of  their  occurrence — the  Battle  of 
Lookout  Mountain,  the  Battle  of  Chickauiauga,  and  the  Battle  of  Missionary 
Ridge.  Of  these  we  will  attempt  general  outlines  only. 

Lookout  is  reached  by  railways  described  elsewhere.  Missionary  Ridge  is 
reached  by  the  Electric  Railway  and  by  the  Chattanooga,  Rome  <fc  Columbus 
Railway.  Chickarnauga  is  reached  by  carriage  over  the  Rossville  turnpike,  and 
by  the  trains  of  the  Chattanooga,  Rome  &  Columbus  Railway. 

If  you  desire  to  visit  Chickamauga  by  carriage  from  Chattanooga  yon  will 
drive  out  through  Chattanooga  Valley,  over  the  Rossville  turnpike  road,  and, 
passing  the  John  Ross  House,  turn  to  the  left.  When  you  reach  the  corner  of 
the  Kelley  farm  you  will  enter  the  battle-field  of  Saturday,  and  if  your  guide  is 
posted,  you  will  be  shown  where  brilliant  charges  and  scenes  of  carnage  laifl 
many  a  noble  spirit  low.  Even  at  this  late  day  much  attention  is  given  to  ou 
ting  down  trees  scarred  with  bullet-holes.  Every  bullet  has  left  its  cicatrix,  and 
many  a  tree  shows  a  score  of  wounds. 

Soon  you  emerge  upon  a  glade,  on  the  southern  skirts  of  which  the  Federals 
threw  up  the  temporary  breast-works  on  the  night  of  the  19th.  Crossing  the 
Lafayette  highway  again,  you  take  a  country  road  and  drive  to  the  residence  of 
G.  "W.  Snodgrass — himself  a  landmark  of  the  early  days  of  Chattanooga — which 
stands  at  the  base  of  Horseshoe  Ridge,  on  which  General  Thomas  established 
his  headquarters,  and  where  the  fiercest  struggle  of  that  terrible  two  days'  battle 
occurred  on  the  evening  of  Sunday,  September  20th.  This  humble  cabin  was 
then  used  as  a  hospital,  and  as  you  now  stand  in  the  shadow  of  its  surrounding 
shade  trees  you  can  look  up  to  the  beautiful  knoll,  sleeping  in  peace,  and  dream 
of  that  terrible  day  when  brother  fell  by  the  hand  of  brother  in  a  most  unnec- 
essary and  ever-to-be-regretted  war. 

From  the  Snodgrass  House  the  visitor  can  travel  by  neighborhood  and  public 
roads  to  the  well  known  points  of  the  field ;  from  McAfee's  Church  to  Crawfish 
Springs.  The  tour  can  easily  be  made  in  one  day. 

If  you  prefer  to  visit  Chickamauga  by  railway,  take  the  train  in  the  Central 
Passenger  Depot.  The  first  stop  will  be  on  the  summit  of  Missionary  Ridge. 
The  next  will  be  "Chickamauga  Battle-field"  Station.  There  you  will  leave 
your  train,  unless  you  prefer  t«  continue  on  to  Crawfish  Springs. 

Close  to  this  station  is  the  site  of  Widow  Glenn's  House.  There  remain  only 
the  decayed  gate-posts,  the  stone-walled  well,  the  scattered  bricks  of  the  chim- 
ney, and  a  couple  of  peach  trees.  At  this  writing  these  are  discovered  in  a 


48 


HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  CHATTANOOGA 


AND  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN.  49 

corner  of  a  growing  field  of  wheat.  A  few  hundred  yards  distant  the  gallant 
Lytle  fell,  when  Longstreet  made  his  brilliant  charge. 

It  is  about  one  and  a  half  miles  from  this  station  to  the  Snodgrass  House  and 
Horseshoe  Ridge;  a  half  mile  east  of  that  ridge  is  the  Kelley  House,  on  the 
farm  that  "formed  the  key  of  the  Union  position." 

No  tourist  should  fail  to  visit  Crawfish  Springs,  not  only  because  there  began 
the  sanguinary  battle,  but  because  of  the  natural  wonder.  A  livery  stable  at 
that  point  will  accommodate  all  visitors  desiring  to  drive  over  the  field. 

The  several  points  of  historic  interest  in  the  Battle  of  Missionary  Ridge  can 
oe  reached  by  the  Union  Railway,  the  Electric  Railway  and  the  C.,  R.  &  C. 
Railway.  Orchard  Knob  is  a  station  on  the  Union  Railway,  and  Sherman 
Heights  on  the  E.  T.,  V.  &  G.  Railway.  In  fact,  all  the  battle-fields  can  be 
easily  and  comfortably  visited. 

BATTLE  OF  CHICKAMAUGA. 

On  the  8th  of  September,  1863,  General  Bragg,  of  the  Confederate  army,  hav- 
fag  discovered  that  the  Federal  army  threatened  his  left  and  rear,  evacuated 
Chattanooga,  and  it  was  immediately  occupied  by  General  Rosecrans,  of  the 
Federal  army,  thus  winning  the  prize  of  the  campaign  without  firing  a  gun. 
f  he  pursuit  of  the  Confederates  was  soon  undertaken,  and  when  this  movement 
began  Bragg  attempted  to  flank  Rosecrans  and  throw  his  army  between  the 
main  Federal  army  and  the  garrison  at  Chattanooga.  On  the  18th  of  Septem- 
ber both  armies  btood  glaring  at  each  other  on  the  banks  of  the  Chickamauga — 
murky  "  River  of  Deaih.''  Bragg  had  received  reinforcements  from  the  Army 
of  Virginia,  under  Loogstreet. 

On  the  18th  there  was  consi&eraole  skirmishing  and  maneuvering  for  position, 
And  on  the  19th  the  storm  burst  with  pitiless  fury.  By  10  A.  M.  the  engagement 
iras  general;  now  the  Confederates  vreie  touted,  only  to  rally  and  hurl  back, 
with  sickening  slaughter,  the  hosts  of  the  Union.  Until  late  in  the  afternoon 
Che  conflict  raged,  when  suddenly  an  ommous  lull  fell  upon  the  dead,  the  dying 
and  the  weary.  Not  a  gun  was  heard  for  over  an  hour.  Rosecrans  was  deceived 
into  the  belief  that  his  enemy  had  been  sufficiently  puaished"  for  one  day,  and 
began  the  execution  of  strategic  movements;  but  scarcely  had  the  hour  ended 
when  a  furious  charge  by  the  Confederates  threw  the  Fedeial  lines  into  con- 
fusion, and  had  it  not  been  for  the  twenty  guns  of  Hazen,  on  the  Rossville  road, 
the  day  would  have  closed  with  a  most  telling  victory  for  the  Confederates. 
The  galling  enfilading  fire  of  this  artillery  compelled  the  Confederates  to  fall 
back  as  the  sun  went  down  beyond  distant  Lookout. 

When  darkness  enveloped  the  bloody  scene,  arrangements  were  Kads  for 
burying  the  dead  and  caring  for  the  wounded  by  both  sides.  Bragg  reformed 
his  lines  soon  after  nightfall,  and  placed  them  in  direct  command  of  Polk,  on  the 
right,  with  five  divisions,  and  Longstreet,  on  the  left,  with  six  divisions.  This 
changing  of  organization  in  the  face  of  the  enemy  proved  to  be  a  fatal  mistake, 
The  quaint  reply  of  Mr.  Lincoln  when  asked  to  commit  a  similar  blunder  should 
have  been  repeated  to  the  Confederate  General:  "It  is  a  bad  plan  to  swaj, 
4 


60  HISTORICAL  GUIDB  TO  CHATTANOOGA 

horses  in  the  middle  of  a  stream."  Bragg  might  not  have  heeded  the  homely 
wisdom,  for  the  fates  had  already  written  failure  over  against  his  name. 

Polk  was  ordered  to  strike  at  dawn  of  the  20th,  but  the  reverend  general 
slept  away  from  his  lines  during  the  night  of  the  19th,  and  used  the  early  day- 
light of  the  20th  to  read  a  newspaper  at  Alexander's  bridge,  which,  as  Bragg 
angrily  told  General  D.  H.  Hill,  "was  two  miles  from  the  line  of  battle,  where 
be  ought  to  have  been  fighting."  Polk  did  not  begin  the  executing  of  Bragg's 
order  until  nearly  9  o'clock,  a  delay  which  cost  him  his  command.  When  he 
began  the  assault,  the  entire  line  was  quickly  involved.  Back  went  the  Confed- 
erate right,  but  almost  instantly  rallied.  Charge  after  charge  attested-  the 
heroism  of  the  combatants.  The  onslaught  on  the  Federal  left  ceased  when  the 
irresistible  charges  of  the  Confederates  broke  their  center.  Then,  it  is  said, 
Rosecrans  made  several  fatal  mistakes.  Certain  it  is  that  he  telegraphed  to 
"Washington  his  army  was  defeated.  Great  soldier  though  he  was,  he  had  lost 
his  head. 

Thomas  maintained  his  ground  and  gallantly  withstood  the  charges  of  the 
Confederates,  now  flushed  with  victory.  "  Like  a  lion  at  bay  he  repulsed  the 
terrible  onslaughts  of  the  enemy "  on  the  knoll  above  the  Snodgrass  House, 
where  he  had  ordered  the  artillery  massed  to  make  his  last  stand.  Strong  lines 
of  infantry,  commanded  by  Brannan  and  Steedman,  skirted  this  elevated  spot, 
which  resisted  with  almost  unparalleled  gallantry  the  assaults  on  their  front  and 
flanks.  As  the  sun  began  to  go  down  behind  the  tall  pines,  on  that  Sabbath 
afternoon,  the  storm  burst  anew  around  the  Snodgrass  knoll.  Charge  after 
charge  was  repelled  with  terrible  slaughter  to  both  sides.  The  dead  lay  in  heaps 
along  the  green  slopes,  and  the  groans  of  the  wounded  rent  the  air  as  darkness 
enveloped  the  enraged  combatants,  and  Thomas  sorrowfully  began  his  retreat  to 
Rossville,  leaving  the  field  and  most  of  his  dead  and  wounded  in  possession  of 
the  Confederates. 

Gen.  Hill  makes  this  allusion  to  the  opposing  generals  in  a  foot  note  to  his 
excellent  paper  in  the  Century : 

"  Bragg  had  great  respect  and  affection  for  the  first  lieutenant  of  his  battery. 
The  tones  of  tenderness  with  which  he  spoke  of  'Old  Tom'  are  still  well  remem- 
bered by  me. 

"Both  of  these  illustrious  Southerners  dropped  dead  of  heart  disease:  Thomas 
in  San  Francisco  in  1870,  and  Bragg  in  Galveston  in  1876.  Did  the  strain  upon 
them  in  those  terrible  days  at  Chiokamauga  hasten  their  death  T '' 

On  the  following  day  Thomas  placed  his  lines  around  Chattanooga,  while 
Bragg,  instead  of  pursuing  his  victory,  took  possession  of  Missionary  Kidge, 
Chattanooga  Valley  and  the  summit  of  Lookout.  His  hope  was  to  starve  the 
army  now  blockaded  in  Chattanooga.  To  accomplish  this  he  seized  the  railway 
at  the  point  of  Lookout  Mountain. 

The  Confederate  Gen.  Hill  bears  testimony  to  the  courage  of  his  great  oppo- 
nent in  these  words : 

"Thomas  had  received  orders  after  Granger's  arrival  to  retreat  to  Rossville, 
but,  stout  soldier  as  he  was,  he  resolved  to  hold  his  ground  until  nightfall.  An 
hour  more  of  daylight  would  have  insured  hia  capture.  Thomas  had  under  him 


AND  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN.  51 

all  the  Federal  army,  except  the  six  brigades  which  had  been  driven  off  by  the 
left  wing." 

Gen.  Fullerton  tells  the  story  of  one  of  the  terrible  charges  on  the  Horseshoe 
in  these  few  words  : 

"The  enemy  massed  a  force  to  retake  the  ridge.  They  came  before  our  men 
had  rested;  twice  they  assaulted  and  were  driven  back.  During  one  assault,  as 
the  first  line  came  within  range  of  our  muskets,  it  halted,  apparently  hesitating, 
when  we  saw  a  colonel  seize  a  flag,  wave  it  over  his  head,  and  rush  forward. 
The  whole  line  instantly  caught  his  enthusiasm,  and  with  a  wild  cheer  followed, 
only  to  be  hurled  back  again.  Our  men  ran  down  the  ridge  in  pursuit.  In  the 
midst  of  a  group  of  Confederate  dead  and  wounded  they  found  the  brave  colonel 
dead,  the  flag  he  carried  spread  over  him  where  he  fell." 

A  month  after  the  disaster  of  Chickamauga  Gen.  Rosecrans  was  relieved  and 
Gen.  Thomas  was  placed  in  command  of  the  Army  of  the  Cumberland. 

Rosecrans  and  Bragg  have  been  censured  for  their  conduct  of  this  battle. 
Strange  to  say,  neither  general  took  advantage  of  the  mistakes  of  the  other.  It 
is  beyond  controversy  that  the  Federal  general  was  the  abler  commander  of  the 
two.  It  is  pretty  generally  conceded  that  had  Bragg  been  Rosecran's  equal  the 
gallant  Army  of  the  Cumberland  would  have  been  annihilated.  Bragg  repeated 
the  tactics  of  Cave  City,  Perryville  and  Murfreesboro,  and  again  allowed  victory 
to  escape. 

Rosecrans'  order  to  "Wood  to  "close  upon  Reynolds  and  support  him."  and 
his  hasty  return  to  Chattanooga  from  the  field,  are  said  to  have  been  fatal  blun- 
ders. The  Confederate  Gen.  Hill  says  this  of  the  first  mistake : 

"Brannan  was  between  Reynolds  and  "Wood.  The  order  'to  close  upon  Rey- 
nolds' was  naturally  enough  interpreted  by  "Wood  to  support  Reynolds,  and  not, 
as  it  seems  Rosecraiis  meant,  to  close  to  the  left.  He  withdrew  his  division  and 
began  his  march  to  the  left  and  in  rear  of  Brannan.  A  gap  was  left  into  which 
Longstreet  stepped  with  the  eight  brigades  (Bushrod  Johnson's,  Mohair's, 
Gregg's,  Kershaw's,  Law's,  Humphreys',  Benning's  and  Robertson's),  which  he 
had  arranged  in  three  lines  to  constitute  his  grand  column  of  attack.  Davis' 
two  brigades,  one  of  Van  Cleve's,  and  Sheridan's  entire  division  were  caught  in 
front  and  flank  and  driven  from  the  field.  Disregarding  the  order  of  the  day, 
Lougstreet  now  gave  the  order  to  wheel  to  the  right  instead  of  the  left,  and 
thus  take  in  reverse  the  strong  position  of  the  enemy.  Five  of  McCook's  bri- 
gades were  speedily  driven  off  the  field.  He  estimates  their  loss  at  forty  per 
cent." 

The  part  played  by  Longstreet  in  this  battle  was  worthy  of  his  great  fame  in 
those  days.  The  rapid  transfer  of  his  troops  from  Virginia  to  Georgia  was  kept 
a  profound  secret  from  the  Federals.  On  the  15th  of  September  Gen.  Halleck 
telegraphed  to  Gen.  Rosecrans  that  Bragg  had  not  been  re-enforced  from  Vir- 
ginia. At  that  moment  Bragg  and  Longstreet  may  have  been  shaking  hands. 
Indeed,  Longstreet's  arrival  was  as  great  a  surprise  to  Rosecrans  as  was  Na- 
poleon's descent  upon  Marengo  to  Gen.  Melas.  He  seemed  to  have  dropped  out 
of  the  heavens.  This  should  go  to  Gen.  Rosencrans'  credit. 

Gen.  Hill  relates  an  incident  of  the  battle,  which  is  full  of  pathos,  and  worthy 


62  .         HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO   CHATTANOOGA 

of  perpetuity.  The  general  tells :  "In  the  lull  of  the  strife  I  went  with  a  staff 
officer  to  examine  the  ground  on  our  left.  One  of  Helm's  wounded  men  had 
been  overlooked,  and  was  lying  alone  iu  the  woods,  his  head  partly  supported 
by  a  tree.  He  was  shockingly  injured.  He  belonged  to  Von  Zinken's  regiment. 
of  .New  Orleans,  composed  of  French,  Germans  and  Irish.  I  said  to  him :  'My 
poor  fellow,  you  are  badly  hurt.  What  regiment  do  you  belong  tot'  He  re- 
plied: 'The  Fifth  Confederit,  and  a  dommed  good  regiment  it  is.'  The  answer, 
though  almost  ludicrous,  touched  me  as  illustrating  the  esprit  de  corps  of  the 
Boldier— his  pride  in  and  his  affection  for  his  command.  Col.  Von  Zinken  told 
me  afterward  that  one  of  his  desperately  wounded  Irishmen  cried  out  to  his  com- 
rades :  '  Charge  them,  boys ;  they  have  cha-ase  (cheese)  in  their  haversacks.' 
Poor  Pat,  he  has  fought  courageously  in  every  land  in  quarrels  not  his  own." 

And  on  the  same  field  where  lay  this  son  of  Erin  fell  the  gallant  Gen.  W.  H. 
Lytle,  who  wrote 

"  I  am  dying,  Egypt,  dying, 
Ebbs  the  crimson  life-tide  fast." 

Col.  Archer  Anderson  estimates  the  relative  strength  of  the  two  armies: 
"  From  an  examination  of  the  original  returns  in  the  War  Department,  I  reckon, 
in  round  numbers,  the  Federal  infantry  and  artillery  on  the  field  at  fifty-nine 
thousand,  and  the  Confederate  infantry  and  artillery  at  fifty-five  thousand. 
The  Federal  cavalry,  about  ten  thousand  strong,  was  outnumbered  by  the  Con- 
federates by  a  thousand  men.  Thus  speak  the  returns.  Perhaps  a  deduction  of 
five  thousand  men  from  the  reported  strength  of  each  army  would  more  nearly 
represent  the  actual  strength  of  the  combatants.  It  is,  I  think,  certain  that 
Rosecrans  was  stronger  in  infantry  and  artillery  than  Bragg  by  at  least  four 
thousand  men." 

Of  these  fully  twenty-seven  thousand  were  killed  or  wounded. 

We  make  the  following  extract  from  the  small  war  volume  issued  by  Gen.  H. 
If.  Cist,  entitled  "The  Army  of  the  Cumberland."  Gen.  Cist  was  A.  A.  G.  on 
the  stuff  of  Gen.  Rosecrans,  and  afterward  on  the  staff  of  Gen.  Thomas: 

<;A11  things  considered,  the  battle  of  Chickamauga,  for  the  forces  engaged, 
was  the  hardest  fought  and  bloodiest  battle  of  the  Rebellion 

"To  the  enemy,  the  results  of  the  engagement  proved  a  victory  barren  of 
any  lasting  benefits,  and  produced  no  adequate  results  to  the  immense  drain  on 
the  resources  of  his  army.  In  a  number  of  places  Bragg' s  official  report  shows 
that  his  army  was  so  crippled  that  he  was  not  able  to  strengthen  one  portion  of 
his  line,  when  needed,  with  troops  from  another  part  of  the  field;  and  after  the 
conflict  was  over,  his  army  was  so  cut  up  that  it  was  impossible  for  him  to  fol- 
low up  his  apparent  success  and  secure  possession  of  the  objective  point  of  the 
campaign— Chattanooga.  This  great  gateway  of  the  mountains  remaining  in 
possession  of  the  Army  of  the  Cumberland,  after  Brugg  had  paid  the  heavy  price 
he  did  at  Chic-kamaoga,  proves  that  his  battle  waa  a  victory  only  in  name,  and  a 
careful  examination  of  the  results  and  their  cost  will  show  how  exceedingly 
•mall  it  was  to  the  enemy." 

So  much  is  all  that  our  space  permits  for  the  story  of  the  sanguinary  field  of 
ChickauittUgft.  tfo  wonder  the  blue  and  the  prey  are  now  united  in  an  effort  to 


AND  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN.  53 

erect  thereon  memorials  of  American  valor,  as  has  already  been  done  at  Gettys- 
burg. No  wonder  that  Wheeler,  one  of  the  great  cavalry  generals  on  the  Con- 
federate side,  and  now  a  member  of  Congress,  hurries  to  meet  Rosecrans  in  this 
year  of  national  peace  and  prosperity,  1889,  to  help  establish  the  battle  lines 
and  positions,  and  lay  out  the  boundaries  of  a  park  that  shall  be  a  Mecca  to  those 
who  honor  the  memory  of  Rosecrans,  Bragg,  Thomas,  Longstreet,  Granger, 
Hill,  Brannan,  Breckinridge,  Steedman,  Cleburne,  Wheeler,  Lytle,  and  the  rest 
of  the  heroes  who  participated  in  the  conflict.  And  the  inquiry  then  will  not 
be,  "Who  won  the  bat  tie?"  but  "Who  fought  the  Bravest  and  died  the  Purest  t" 
on  both  sides.  In  deed  and  in  truth  it  will  then  be  acknowledged  a  "drawn 
battle." 


BATTLE  OP  MISSIONARY  RIDGE. 

The  Federal  authorities  allude  to  this  series  of  combats  as  the  "  Battles  of 
Chattanooga,  Lookout  Mountain  and  Missionary  Ridge." 

On  the  18th  of  October,  1863,  Gen.  U.  S.  Grant  assumed  command  of  the  De- 
partment of  Tennessee  and  Gen.  George  H.  Thomas  remained  in  command  of 
the  Army  of  the  Cumberland.  The  Confederates  held  Lookout  Mountain  and 
the  railway  at  its  base,  as  well  as  the  valley  of  Chattanooga  and  Missionary 
Ridge. 

The  Federal  base  of  supplies  was  at  Bridgeport  and  Stevenson,  fifty-one 
miles  distant  by  wagon  road,  and  they  were  transported  by  wagons  through  Se- 
quachee  Valley,  and  over  the  mountains  that  surround  Chattanooga.  As  the 
autumn  advanced  this  mountain  road  became  almost  impassable,  and  starvation 
threatened  the  garrison  of  the  mountain  city.  By  a  well  planned  and  skillfully 
executed  strategic  movement  Lookout  Valley  was  opened  on  October  28th,  and 
on  November  1st  the  "siege  of  Chattanooga,  by  the  forces  of  nature,"  was 
raised.  The  Confederates  were  still  on  the  Federal  front,  on  Lookout  and  Mis- 
sionary Ridge,  and  in  the  Chattanooga  Valley. 

We  learn  from  official  reports  that  on  the  15th  of  November,  1863,  Gen.  Grant 
had  concentrated  80,000  troops  in  and  around  Chattanooga,  and  that  50,000  Con- 
federates occupied  Lookout  and  Missionary  Ridge,  Longstreet  having  gone  on  a 
"wild  goose  chase"  to  Knozville.  On  the  23d,  Grant  undertook  the  raising  of 
the  seige  on  his  front  by  ordering  Gen.  Thomas  to  make  an  armed  reconnaissance 
to  develop  the  Confederate  lines,  which  was  done  in  the  early  morning  By  1 
p.  M.  Sherman  had  crossed  the  Tennessee  at  the  northern  extremity  of  Mission- 
ary Ridge,  and  at  4  o'clock  he  had  a  heavy  engagement  in  an  effort  to  seize  the 
second  hill  of  the  Ridge,  the  one  through  which  passes  the  railway  tunnel.  He 
was  repulsed;  Granger  had  already  captured  "Orchard  Knob,"  and  soon  dark 
ness  closed  the  combat. 

If  the  reader  will  drive  out  to  the  site  of  Fort  Wood  he  will  at  a  glance  take 
ki  the  positions  of  both  armies  on  that  day.  Where  you  stand,  great  guns 
frowned  defiance  to  the  enemy  entrenched  on  Missionary  Ridge  in  front.  Be- 
tween you  and  the  Ridge  is  the  conical  mound,  with  its  houses  and  scrubby  shade, 


64  HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  CHATTANOOOA 

known  as  Orchard  Knob,  and  held  a  part  of  that  day  by  the  Confederates.  Be- 
yond this  knob  is  Missionary  Ridge,  now  covered  with  orchards  and  vineyards, 
and  dotted  with  happy  homes,  but  on  that  day  of  strife  rocky  and  wrinkled  with 
ravines,  and  uninhabited.  The  northern  extremity  of  this  ridge  is  where  Sher- 
man ascended,  and  the  second  and  lowest  depression  south  of  it  is  where  the 
railroad  sweeps  through  a  tanuel. 

Early  in  the  morning  of  the  24th  the  movements  were  continued.  Hooker 
bridged  swollen  Lookout  Creek,  in  full  view  of  Stevenson,  whose  lines  were 
posted  on  the  summit  of  Lookout.  The  mist  hanging  over  the  valley  concealed 
from  the  observatory  of  the  Confederates  the  advancing  column  of  the  Federal 
Geary.  The  Confederate  Gen.  Walthal,  with  a  small  force,  held  the  terrace  of 
the  mountain,  just  under  the  "Point,"  known  as  the  Craven  place,  over  which 
Hooker  would  have  to  pass  to  reach  the  valley  of  Chattanooga.  The  skirmish- 
ing on  that  lofty  field  we  briefly  describe  elsewhere  as  the  "Battle  Above  the 
Clouds." 

On  the  25th  began  the  battle  of  Missionary  Ridge  proper.  During  the  long, 
long  day  the  battle  raged  with  relentless  fury.  At  4  p.  M.  the  Federal  lines, 
which  filled  the  valley,  moved  rapidly  forward,  at  a  signal  of  six  guns,  fired  in 
rapid  succession  on  Orchard  Knob,  up  the  slopes  of  the  rifle-pits  of  the  Confed- 
erates, under  a  galling  and  destructive  fire  of  musketry.  Over  the  rifle-pits, 
thinly  occupied  by  the  depleted  division  of  the  Confederates,  but  gallantly  de- 
fended, swept  line  after  line  of  the  victorious  Federals,  and  when  the  sun  went 
down  the  Confederates  were  routed,  the  Federals  held  the  Ridge,  and  from  that 
time  forward  remained  in  undisputed  possession  of  Chattanooga. 

The  battle  was  fierce  and  decisive,  and  the  losses  very  heavy.  Bragg  said  in 
his  report:  "The  enemy  having  secured  much  of  our  artillery,  soon  availed 
themselves  of  our  panic,  and,  turning  our  guns  upon  u*,  enfiladed  our  lines  both 
right  and  left,  rendering  them  wholly  untenable."  Grant  said  "they  encoun- 
tered a  fearful  volley  of  grape  and  cannister  from  near  thirty  pieces  of  artillery 
and  musketry  from  still  well-filled  rifle-pits  on  the  summit."  Both  sides  recog- 
nised this  battle  as  one  of  the  most  important  and  decisive  of  the  war,  and  one 
in  which  both  armies  displayed  the  highest  courage  and  the  most  brilliant  feats 
of  gallantry. 

The  Confederates  retreated  in  the  direction  of  Ringgold,  by  way  of  Chicka- 
manga  Station,  leaving  behind  600  prisoners  and  a  host  of  stragglers,  forty  can- 
non and  7,000  stand  of  small  arms. 

Next  morning  Sherman  pu>hed  on  to  Graysville,  and  Palmer  and  Hooker  took 
the  Ros&ville  road.  At  Ringgold  the  Confederates,  under  the  brilliant  Cleburne, 
turned  and  attacked  Hooker.  It  was  a  severe  combat,  lasting  the  entire  day. 
Tb«  Federate  suffered  large  losses,  many  being  experienced  officers.  Bragg 
continued  on  to  Dalton,  and  Grant  gent  relief  to  Buruside,  who  was  closely  in- 
vrnted  at  Knoxville  by  Longstreet.  That  was  the  first  result  of  Missionary 
Ridge. 

The  following  extract  from  Gen.  Cist's  book  may  add  a  little  spice  to  our  tame 
description  of  this  battle,  and  is  inserted  without  comment: 

"On  the  crest  of  the  hill  Bragg's  mo.i  had  constructed  their  heaviest  breast- 


AND  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN.  66 

works,  protected  on  our  front  by  some  fifty  pieces  of  artillery  in  position.  As 
our  troops  advanced,  each  command  cheering  and  answering  back  the  cheers  of 
the  others,  the  men  broke  into  a  double-quick,  all  striving  to  be  the  first  to 
reach  the  rifle-pits  at  the  foot  of  the  ridge,  held  by  a  strong  line  of  the  enemy's 
troops.  The  Confederates  opened  fire  with  shot  and  shell  from  their  batteries  as 
our  troops  advanced,  changing  it  soon  to  grape  and  cannister,  which,  with  the 
fire  from  the  infantry,  made  it  terrifically  hot.  Dashing  through  this,  over  an 
open  plain,  our  soldiers  swept  on,  driving  the  enemy's  skirmishers,  charging 
down  on  the  line  of  works  at  the  foot  of  the  ridge,  capturing  it  at  the  point  of 
the  bayonet,  and  routing  the  rebels,  sending  them  at  full  speed  up  the  ridge, 
killing  and  capturing  them  in  great  numbers.  The  troops  lay  down  at  the  foot 
of  the  ridge  awaiting  orders.  Under  no  orders  from  their  officers,  first  one  regi- 
ment and  then  another  started  with  its  colors  up  the  ascent,  until,  with  loud 
hurrahs,  the  entire  line,  cheered  by  their  officers,  advanced  over  and  around 
rocks,  under  and  through  the  fallen  timber,  charged  up  the  ridge,  each  deter- 
mined to  reach  the  summit  first.  In  some  cases  the  Confederates  were  bayo- 
neted at  their  guns.  The  charge  occupied  about  one  hour  from  the  time  of  the 
firing  of  the  guns  on  Orchard  Knob  until  our  troops  occupied  the  rebel  lines  oil 
the  ridge." 

Sherman  says :  "  Grant  told  me  '  that  the  men  of  Thomas'  army  had  been  so 
demoralized  by  the  battle  of  Chickamauga  that  he  feared  they  could  not  be  got 
out  of  their  trenches  to  assume  the  offensive/  and  that  '  the  Army  of  the  Cum- 
berland had  so  long  been  in  the  trenches  that  he  wanted  my  troops  to  hurry  up 
to  take  th«  offensive  first,  after  which  he  had  no  doubt  the  Cumberland  Army 
would  fight  well.'  So,  under  Grant's  plan,  the  Army  of  the  Cumberland  was  to 
stand  by  and  be  taught  a  grand  object  lesson  how  to  fight,  as  given  by  Sherman. 

""Whenever  the  victory  of  Missionary  Ridge  shall  be  narrated  on  history's 
page,  the  gallant  charge  of  the  brave  men  of  Wood's  and  Sheridan's  divisions, 
with  those  of  Baird  and  Johnson  on  th»  left  and  right,  will  always  be  the  prom- 
inent feature  of  the  engagement  as  told  in  the  coming  years,  and  will  be  the  last 
to  lose  its  glory  and  renown. 

"No  wonder  that  Gen.  Grant  failed  to  appreciate  this  movement  at  the  time, 
not  understanding  the  troops  who  had  it  in  charge.  "When  he  found  these  com- 
mands ascending  the  ridge  to  capture  it  when  he  ordered  a  'demonstration'  to 
be  made  to  the  foot  of  the  hill  and  there  to  wait,  he  turned  sharply  to  Gen. 
Thomas  and  asked,  'By  whose  orders  are  those  troops  going  up  the  hill? '  Gen. 
Thomas,  taking  in  the  situation  at  once,  suggested  that  it  was  probably  by  their 
own.  Gen.  Grant  remarked  that  'it  was  all  right  if  it  turned  out  all  right,'  and 
added,  'if  not,  some  one  will  suffer.'  But  it  turned  out  'all  right,'  and  Grant 
in  his  official  report  compliments  the  troops  for  'following  closely  the  retreating 
enemy  without  further  orders.'" 

Gen.  Grant  thus  describes  the  ascent  of  Missionary  Ridge:  "The  troops 
moved  forward,  drove  the  enemy  from  the  rifle-pits  at  the  base  of  the  ridge  like 
bees  from  a  hive,  stopped  but  a  moment  until  the  whole  were  in  line,  and  com- 


56  HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  CHATTANOOGA 

meuoed  the  ascent  of  the  mountain  from  right  to  left  almost  simultaneously, 
following  closely  the  retreating  loe  without  further  orders.  They  encountered  a 
fearful  volley  of  grape  and  canuister  from  near  thirty  pieces  of  artillery  and 
musketry  from  still  well-filled  rifle-pits  on  the  summit,  but  not  a  waver  wa-<  seen 
in  nil  that  long  line  of  brave  men.  The  progress  was  steadily  onward,  until  the 
summit  was  in  their  possession." 

Gen.  Bragg  gives  the  Confederate  story  thus: 

"About  half-past  3  p.  M.  the  immense  force  in  front  of  our  left  and  center 
advanced  in  three  lines,  preceded  by  heavy  skirmishers.  Our  batteries  opened 
with  fine  effect,  and  much  confusion  was  produced  before  they  reached  musket 
range.  In  a  short  time  the  roar  of  musketry  became  very  heavy,  and  it  was 
soon  apparent  that  the  enemy  was  repulsed  in  my  immediate  front.  While  rid- 
ing along  the  crest  congratulating  the  troops,  intelligence  reached  me  that  our 
line  was  broken  on  my  right  and  the  enemy  had  crowned  the  ridge." 

The  Confederate  Gen.  D.  H.  Hill,  commenting  on  those  days,  says :  "  There 
wad  no  more  splendid  fighting  in  '61,  when  the  flower  of  the  Southern  youth 
was  in  the  field,  than  was  displayed  in  the  bloody  days  of  September,  '63.  But 
it  seems  to  me  that  the  ttan  of  the  Southern  soldier  was  never  seen  after  Chick- 
amauga — that  brilliant  dash  which  had  distinguished  him  on  a  hundred  fields 
was  gone  forever.  He  was  too  intelligent  not  to  know  that  the  cutting  in  two 
of  Georgia  meant  death  to  all  his  hopes.  He  knew  that  Longstreet's  absence 
was  imperiling  Lee's  safety,  and  that  wh%t  had  to  be  done  must  be  done  quickly. 
The  delay  to  strike  was  exasperating  to  him;  the  failure  to  strike  after  the  suc- 
cess was  crushing  to  all  his  longings  for  an  independent  South.  HO  fought 
stoutly  to  the  last,  but,  after  Chickamauga,  with  the  sullenness  of  despair  and 
without  the  enthusiasm  of  hope.  That  '  barren  victory '  sealed  the  fate  of  the 
Southern  Confederacy." 

A  war  correspondent,  whose  letters  have  been  remodeled  into  a  book,  says  of 
this  battle,  in  the  peculiar  style  of  his  class : 

"The  splendid  march  from  the  Federal  line  of  battle  to  the  crest  was  made 
in  one  hour  and  five  minutes,  but  it  was  a  grander  march  toward  the  end  of 
carnage— a  glorious  campaign  of  sixty-five  minutes  toward  the  white  borders  of 
peace.  It  made  that  fleeting  November  afternoon  imperishable." 

The  Confederates  were  more  seriously  affected  by  the  disaster  of  Missionary 
Ridge  than  had  been  the  Federals  by  the  defeat  of  Chickamauga.  The  depleted 
ranks  of  the  Confederates  could  not  be  replenished,  for  there  were  no  men  left 
in  the  rear  to  draw  from.  The  whole  world  was  open  to  the  recruiting  persua- 
sions of  the  United  States  Government. 

"We  do  not  doubt  that  the  Almighty  permitted  the  Confederacy  to  work  out 
its  defeat  in  the  "West  through  the  incompetency  of  Gen.  Bragg.  At  Perrvville 
be  lost  the  confidence  of  Hardee  and  Polk.  Confidence  was  still  lacking  in 
wing,  corps  and  division  commanders  at  Murfreesboro.  Chickamauga  added  to 
the  general  discontent,  and  then  Missionary  Ridge  made  forbearance  a  crime. 
Jo-eph  B.  Johnston  came  too  late,  but  the  retreat  upon  Atlanta  has  placed  the 
name  of  Johnston  next  to  that  of  Leu.  Every  true  American  soldier  is  proud 
of  the  ?alor  of  Thomas,  Grant,  Lee  and  J..I  n  t..n,  and  in  their  exalted  momenta 


AND  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN. 


57 


forget  to  boast  of  which  side  they  belonged  to,  and  sincerely  rejoice  that  they 
are  now  citizens  of  a  country  that  produced  such  men. 


CHICKAMAUGA  NATIONAL  PARK. 

On  the  28th  and  30th  of  April,  1889,  Col.  Kellogg,  U.  S.  A.,  accompanied  by 
Gens.  Rosecrans,  Reynolds,  Wheeler,  and  otBer  participants  in  the  great  battle 
of  Chickamauga,  visited  the  field  to  make  accurate  locations  of  troops,  with  a 
view  to  the  establishment  of  a  National  Park.  The  veterans  of  both  armies  are 
deeply  interested  in  this  movement. 

Not  only  is  it  desirable  that  this  Park  should  be  established  as  an  eternal 
memorial  to  American  valor,  and  that  tablets  should  be  erected  to  commemorate 
special  exhibitions  of  that  valor,  but  the  Government  should  establish  there  a 
Soldiers'  Home,  modeled  after  the  one  so  successfully  conducted  at  Dayton, 
Ohio.  And  into  that  Home  might  be  admitted  the  disabled  citizens  who  served 
in  both  armies.  "We  say  "might,"  because  we  know  that  such  unselfish  patriot- 
ism is  impossible,  inasmuch  as  the  politicians,  not  the  brave  men  who  fought 
the  battle  on  the  Union  side,  would  oppose  such  generosity. 

The  writer  religiously  believes  that  if  the  matter  was  submitted  to  the  vote 
of  the  Union  soldiers — skulkers,  bummers  and  camp  followers  excluded — the 
brave  men  who  always  bared  their  breasts  to  storm  of  Confederate  bail,  would 
unanimously  vote  to  admit  the  disabled  of  their  gallant  enemy  to  the  comforts 
and  blessings  of  such  a  paradise.  Aye,  more  !  They  would  vote  the  gathering 
of  the  ashes  of  their  brave  opponents  who  fell  at  Chickamauga,  Chattanooga  and 
Missionary  Ridge,  into  the  beautiful  National  Cemetery.  But  the  brave  veterans 
of  the  Union  will  never  have  the  opportunity  to  so  vote. 


SOME   DISTANCES. 

The  following  table  will  be  of  interest  to  those  who  desire  to  study  the  move- 
ments of  troops  during  the  battles  of  Chattanooga,  Chickamauga  and  Missionary 
Ridge: 

FROM  CHATTANOOGA  TO 


Orchard  Knob 2    miles. 

Sherman  Heights 5 

Rossville  Gap 5 

Crawfish  Spring 13 

Widow  Glenn's  House 10 

Kelley's  Ferry 12 

La  Fayette 24i 

Lookout  Mountain  (base)  ...  2$ 


National  Cemetery 1-J  miles. 

Boyce  Station  (old) 6 

McFarland's  Gap 7 

Lee  <fe  Gordon  Mill 12 

S  nod  grass  House 9^ 

Ringgold 16 

"Wauhatchee 6 

Brown's  Ferry 5 


FROM  ROSSVILLE  TO 


Horseshoe  Ridge 4 

Kelley'e  House 4 } 


McAfee's  Church 3    miles. 

Riuggold  (via  bridge) 12       " 


HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  CHATTANOOGA 


FROM  MCFARLAND'S  GAP  TO 


Glenn's  House 4   miles. 

Kelley's  House 2f      " 

Suodgrass  House 2i      " 


Lee  &  Gordon  Mill 5f  miles. 

Crawfish  Spring 7f      " 

Vidito's  House li      " 


FROM  WIDOW  GLENN'S  HOUSE  TO 


McFarland's  Gap 4    miles. 

Lee  <fc  Gordon  Mill 1J      " 

Crawfish  Spring 3fc      " 

Chattanooga 10       " 


Snodgrass  House If  milea 

Tidito's  House J        " 

Leet's  Tan-yard i      " 

Brotherton  House i      " 


AND  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN.  69 


CHATTANOOGA  AS  A  MANUFACTURING  POIE 


It  is  now  generally  conceded  that  the  "Chattanooga  mineral  district"  is  on« 
of  the  richest  in  coal,  iron  and  copper  of  this  entire  continent.  The  coal  is  very 
nearly  free  from  sulphur,  and  cokes  well ;  the  beds  of  iron  ore  are  abundant, 
averaging  from  four  to  five  feet  in  thickness,  and  the  ores  average  fifty  per  cent 
of  iron.  The  coal  is  adapted  to  the  manufacture  of  the  best  quality  of  iron,  and 
liee  on  the  great  layer  of  conglomerate  rock  of  the  lower  carboniferous  period, 
averaging  five  feet  in  thickness.  The  iron  ore  embraces  brown  hematite,  or 
limonite,  And  fossiliferous  red  hematite,  the  latter  crossed  by  great  beds  of  lime- 
stone of  the  subcarboniferous  period. 

For  timber,  the  district  draws  on  a  forest  that  is  tributary  to  Chattanooga  by 
reason  of  800  miles  of  railroad,  and  more  than  1,000  miles  of  navigable  waters, 
which  penetrate  it  in  every  direction  almost.  There  is  every  variety  of  wood 
indigenous  to  the  climate  of  thirty-five  degrees  north  latitude,  and  a  few  other 
varieties  considered  peculiar  to  the  climate  1,000  miles  north  of  us.  There  is  an 
abundance  of  Norway  pine,  hemlock,  black  walnut,  maple  and  wild  cherry. 
There  is  also  an  abundant  supply  of  yellow  pine,  together  with  white  and  yellow 
poplar,  and  perhaps  the  supply  of  oak  is  the  largest  of  all.  The  hills  are  plenti- 
fully supplied  with  hickory,  and  not  very  far  away  is  red  cedar,  and  on  all  the 
ridges  mountain  laurel  grows  prolifically.  There  is  also  a  reasonably  good  sup- 
ply of  buckeye  and  wild  cucumber. 

For  the  movement  of  raw  material  and  the  distribution  of  manufactures, 
Chattanooga's  means  of  transportation  ar_e  unsurpassed.  This  coming  autumn 
the  great  water-way,  the  Tennessee  River,  will  be  relieved  from  the  muscle 
shoals  obstruction,  thus  opening  to  us  water  communication  with  all  the  ports 
of  the  world.  At  present  there  are  seven  railways,  whose  termini  are  in  this 
city—the  Western  <fc  Atlantic;  the  Nashville,  Chattanooga  <fc  St.  Louis;  the 
East  Tennessee,  Virginia  <fc  Georgia;  the  Memphis  &  Charleston;  the  Cincinnati 
Southern;  the  Alabama  Great  Southern,  and  the  Chattanooga,  Rome  <fc  Colum- 
bus. If  we  read  the  signs  correctly,  two  more  trunk  lines  will  be  added  before 
the  close  of  1890. 

In  demonstration  of  Chattanooga's  importance  as  a  manufacturing  point,  we 
quote  the  larger 

MANUFACTORIES 

in  operation  on  June  1,  1889,  companies  and  firms : 

BLAST  FURNACES. 
Citico  Furnace  Company.  Chattanooga  Iron  Company. 


60  HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  CHATTANOOGA 

ROLLING  MILLS. 

Lookout  Iron  Company.  South  Tredegar  Iron  Company. 

Koane  Iron  Company  (temporarily  suspended). 

TANNERIES. 
Fayerweather  &  Ladew.  Scholze  Bro.'s  Tannery. 

FOUNDRIES. 

Etna  Foundry  (G.  W.  Wheeland).  Wagner's  Foundry. 

Cahill's  Foundry  and  Iron  "Works.  Chattanooga  Car  Foundry  Company. 

Chattanooga  Pipe  and  Foundry  Co.         Phoenix  Foundry  Company. 

MACHINE  SHOPS. 

Trnxall  &  Dnnnemeyer.  Etna  Machine  "Works. 

Cahill  Architectural  "Works.  Meehan  Brake  Shoe  "Works. 

Chattanooga  Machinery  Company. 

PLANING  MILLS. 

Loomia  <t  Hart  Manufacturing  Co.  "Willingham  Lumber  Company. 

Duncan,  Pytt  <fc  Company.  Seymour,  Stratton  &  Company. 

Lookout  Planing  Mill.  "    East  Tennessee  Manufacturing  Co. 

Morrison  Manufacturing  Company.         Hughes  Lumber  Company. 

STOVR  FACTORIES. 

Chattanooga  Stove  Company.  Snow  Stove  and  Range  Company. 

Gibson-Love  Manufacturing  Company. 

IRON  AHD  YITRIPIED  PIPES. 

Chattanooga  Iron  Pipe  "Works.  Montague's  Clay  Pipe  "Works. 

Chattanooga  Clay  Pipe  "Works. 

FURNITURE. 

Loomis  &  Hart  Manufacturing  Co.          Temple  <fc  Shipp  Furniture  Company. 
Suudquist  Manufacturing  Company.        Ristine  &  Co.  Furniture  Company. 

WAGOH  FACTORIES. 
Fassnacht's  Carriage  and  Wagon  Factory. 

AGRICULTURAL  IMPLEMENTS. 

Chattanooga  Tool  "Works.  Chattanooga  Plow  "Works. 

Chattanooga  Agricultural  "Works. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Chattanooga  Boiler  "Works.  Cracker  and  Candy  Factory. 

Fruit  Canning  Company.  Big  Spring  Ice  Company. 

Lookout  Ice  Factory  and  Storage.  Lowe's  Mineral  Paint  Mill. 

Chattanooga  Medicine  Company.  Standard  Scales  Works. 

Vehicle  Springs  Company.  Four  Cigar  Factories. 

Palmer's  Artificial  Stone  Works.  Chattanooga  Marble  and  Stone  Company. 

Troutt's  Marble  and  Granite  Yard.  Stewart  Electrical  (Talc)  Appliances. 


AND  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN.  61 

As  the  supply  of  coal,  iron  and  timber  is  practically  inexhaustible,  it  is  con- 
fidently predicted  that  Chattanooga  will  be  one  of  the  largest  manufacturing 
cities  of  the  country  before  the  close  of  the  century. 

The  manufacturer  who  has  an  eye  to  economy  (and  what  successful  manu- 
facturer has  notf)  must  be  profoundly  impressed  with  this  valley's  attractions. 
Not  only  is  iron,  coal  and  timber  cheaper  here  than  in  the  North,  but  the  actual 
cost  of  running  a  factory  is  less.  Here  factories  have  to  be  heated  not  over 
three  months  in  the  year,  with  occasional  demands  during  another  month.  At 
the  North  this  heating  period  extends  to  six  months,  with  occasional  demand* 
on  the  seventh.  And  this  item  of  fuel  enters  into  the  calculations  of  the  artizan 
and  laborer,  and  into  the  personal  expenses  of  the  managers.  There  is  a  net 
saving  of  fifty  per  centum. 

The  saving  extends  further  to  the  artizan.  The  mild  climate  renders  the 
heavy  and  expensive  clothing  of  the  North  unwearable.  Here  is  a  large  item  of 
saving  to  the  families  of  the  workmen.  Provisions  are  about  as  cheap  as  else- 
where. The  items  of  saving  arising  out  of  balmy  climate  not  only  include  fuel 
and  clothing,  but  doctors'  bills  and  medicines.  Only  the  careless  suffer  here 
from  the  unavoidable  sicknesses  of  the  North. 

The  depleting  effects  of  summer  heat,  common  to  the  lower  South,  are  not 
felt  among  the  mountains  that  stand  around  Chattanooga.  At  times  the  sun 
comes  down  with  scorching  rays  at  midday,  just  as  it  comes  down  all  over  the 
Union,  but  the  warm  nights  which  deprive  one  of  restful  slumber  do  not  average 
six  per  annum  in  any  decade.  This  statement  is  based  upon  an  experience  ac- 
quired during  a  residence  of  eighteen  years  in  this  city  of  Chattanooga.  See  our 
article  on  "Climate." 


62  HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  CHATTANOOGA 


CITY  GOVERNMENT. 


The  city  is  divided  into  eight  wards,  the  boundaries  of  which  are  too  irregular 
for  description  in  this  Guide. 

The  government  is  vested  in  a  Mayor  and  Board  of  Aldermen  (two  from  each 
of  the  eight  wards),  Recorder  (or  Police  Judge),  Auditor,  Attorney,  Engineer, 
Tax  Assessor  and  Treasurer,  and  a  Register  of  Vital  Statistics.  The  Aldermen 
are  organized  into  six  committees :  Finance,  Streets  and  Sewers,  Fire,  Water 
and  Lights,  Health  and  Hospitals,  Schools  and  Public  Buildings,  and  Police  and 
Prisons. 

The  Board  of  Health  is  composed  of  the  Mayor,  the  Chairman  of  Health  and 
Hospitals  Committee,  the  City  Physician,  and  a  physician  chosen  by  vote  of  the 
Board. 

The  Police  are  under  control  of  a  Police  Commission,  consisting  of  two  Dem- 
ocrats and  one  Republican,  appointed  by  the  Governor  of  the  State.  Each 
serves  for  three  years,  one  going  out  each  year. 

NOTE— This  special  organization  goes  into  effect  November,  1889.  The  form 
at  this  writing  (June  1,  1889)  is  a  Mayor,  Board  of  six  Aldermen,  Auditor,  At- 
torney, Engineer,  Physician,  Treasurer  and  Tax  Collector,  and  a  Register  of 
Vital  Statistics.  The  Mayor  is  now  Police  Judge. 

WATER  WORKS. 

The  Pumping  Station  is  near  to  the  mouth  of  Citioo  Greek,  and  the  daily 
capacity  is  20,000,000  gallons.  Water  is  taken  at  a  point  200  feet  above  Citico 
Creek,  forced  through  the  system  of  filters  (eighteen  in  number)  known  as  the 
"National,"  and  sent  into  town  in  a  twenty-inch  main  and  in  a  sixteen-inch 
main.  A  reservoir  is  on  the  side  of  Missionary  Ridge,  at  Ridgedale,  which  is 
182  feet  above  Market  street,  giving  a  pressure  of  seventy-fire  pounds  uniformly. 
The  mains  are  about  sixty  miles  in  length.  This  is  just  double  the  length  of  the 
mains  in  the  year  1886,  and  extensions  are  going  on  rapidly.  There  are  200  fire 
plugs. 

FIRE   DEPARTMENT. 

Headquarters,  W.  Ninth  street,  corner  of  Poplar. 
Lookout  No.  1,  W.  Ninth  street,  corner  of  Poplar. 
Car-lisle  No.  2,  Montgomery  avenue,  corner  of  Cowart  street. 
There  are  three  steam  fire-engines,  four  hose-reels,  two  hook  and  ladder 
tracks,  6,500  feet  of  hose,  and  three  engine-houses. 


AND  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN.  63 

FIRE  ALARM  TELEGRAPH. 

The  Gamewell  system  Is  in  -use,  with  the  necessary  gongs,  indicators,  and 
thirty-two  alarm  boxes,  located  as  follows : 

12.  Georgia  avenue  and  E.  Fourth.  36.  Boyce  and  Hooke. 

13.  Douglas  and  Vine.  37.  Lookout  Engine-house. 

14.  McCallie  avenue  and  Houston.  41.  Giluier  and  Palmetto. 

15.  Walnut  and  E.  Seventh.  42.  King  and  E.  Ninth. 

16.  Gilmer  and  E.  43.  King  and  E.  T.  R.  R.  crossing. 

17.  Poplar  and  Fifth.  45.  Market  and  Eighth. 

21.  Cedar  and  W.  Sixth.  46.  Georgia  avenue  and  E.  Ninth, 

23.  Pine  and  W.  Fourth.  51.  Market  and  Union. 

24.  Market  and  Second.  52.  Whiteside  and  Aiken. 

25.  Market  and  Fourth.  53.  John  and  William. 

26.  Market  and  Sixth.  54.  Wason  Car  Works. 

27.  Loomis  <fc  Hart's  Mill.  56.  Whiteside  and  Missionary  avenue. 

31.  Gillespie  and  East  Terrace.  57.  Hughes'  Planing  Mill. 

32.  Roane  Iron  Company.  62.  Carlile  Engine-house. 

34.  Tannery.  121.  Read  House. 

35.  College  and  Cravens. 

Keys  can  be  found  at  the  nearest  houses  to  the  boxes,  and  one  is  given  to 
each  police  officer,  and  a  few  are  given  to  responsible  citizens. 

Gongs  in  engine-houses  have  indicators  attached,  and  alarm  signals  will  be 
understood  as  follows:  When  an  alarm  is  given  from  box  36,  the  bell  at  the 
Lookout  Engine-house  will  strike  three  slowly,  and  then  after  a  pause  it  will 
strike  six — thus :  1,  1,  1 — 1,  1,  1,  1,  1,  1=36.  This  will  be  repeated  three  times, 
giving  four  signals  for  each  call  of  fire. 

NEWSPAPERS. 

The  Daily  and  Weekly  Times.  Published  by  The  Times  Printing  Company. 
Office  in  Adams'  Block,  Eighth  street. 

The  Evening  News.    Published  by  Evening  News  Company. 

The  Sunday  Argus.     Office  on  Seventh  street. 

The  Tradesman.  A  monthly  devoted  to  manufactures,  and  published  from 
the  Times  building. 

BANKS. 

First  National,  chartered  1866 . capital,  $200,000 

Third  National,  chartered  1881 capital,  250,000 

Chattanooga  National,  chartered  1887 capital,  300, 000 

City  Savings,  chartered  1886 capital,  200,000 

The  Peoples,  chartered  1887 capital,  200,000 

Trust  and  Banking  Company,  chartered  1888 capital,  30,000 

Chattanooga  Savings,  chartered  1889 capital,  50,000 

Fourth  National,  chartered  1889 capital,  150,000 


HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  CHATTANOOGA 


SOCIETIES. 

MASONIC — Two  lodges,  one  Chapter  and  a  Commandery. 

ODD  FELLOWS — Two  lodges,  and  an  Encampment. 

KNIGHTS  OF  PYTHIAS — Two  lodges,  Endowment  Rank  and  Uniform  Bank. 

UIUTBD  WORKMEN— One  lodge,  second  Tuesdays. 

ROTAL  ARCANUM — One  lodge,  fourth  Mondays. 

LEGION  OF  HONOR—  One  council,  firnt  Mondays. 

FRATERNAL  LEGION — One  camp,  first  Thursdays. 

KNIGHTS  OF  HONOR — One  lodge,  first  Wednesdays. 

CATHOLIC  KNIGHTS — Branch  No.  71,  Sundays. 

TCRN-VBRBIN — Meets  every  Sunday. 

GRAND  ARMY  OP  REPUBLIC—  Two  posts. 

CONFEDERATE  VETERANS— One  camp. 


AND  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN.  65 

TOTTNO  MEN'S  CHRISTIAN  ASSOCIATION — Booms  in  Adams'  Block. 
CHATTANOOGA  MEDICAL  SOCIETY— First  Fridays. 
HEBREW  LADIES'  BENEVOLENT  SOCIETY— Call  of  president. 

BOARD  OP  TRADE. 
Booms  in  Chamber  of  Commerce  building,  Market  street. 

CHAMBER  OP  COMMERCE. 
Hall  up-stairs,  in  No.  —  Market  street,  rear  of  building. 

PUBLIC  LIBRARY. 
In  same  building  with  the  Chamber  of  Commerce,  front  room. 

ORPHANS'  HOME. 

On  Vine  street.  Conducted  by  the  ladies  of  the  "Woman's  Christian  Associa- 
tion. 

STEELE  ORPHANS'  HOME. 

For  colored  orphans,  on  Strait  street.  Conducted  by  Mrs.  Almira  S.  Steele, 
its  founder. 

ASSOCIATED  CHARITIES. 

Conducted  by  a  board  of  trustees  and  a  superintendent.  Funds  obtained 
from  city  and  county  governments  chiefly. 

SOME   IMPORTANT  LAWS. 

The  following  laws  are  quoted  with  special  reference  to  Tennessee : 

"A  homestead  in  the  possession  of  each  head  of  a  family,  and  the  improve- 
ments thereon  to  the  extent  of  $1,000,  shall  be  exempt  from  sale  under  legal 
process  during  the  life  of  such  head  of  a  family ;  to  inure  to  the  benefit  of  the 
widow,  shall  be  exempt  during  the  minority  of  their  children  occupying  the 
same ;  nor  shall  the  same  be  alienated  without  the  joint  consent  of  the  husband 
and  wife,  when  that  relation  exists.  This  exemption  shall  not  operate  against 
public  taxes,  nor  debts  contracted  for  the  purchase  money  of  such  homestead  or 
improvements  thereon. 

"  Married  women  owning  a  separate  estate,  settled  upon  them  and  for  their 
separate  use,  can  dispose  of  the  same  by  will,  deed,  or  otherwise,  in  as  full  and 
complete  a  manner  as  if  she  were  unmarried.  The  property  of  the  wife  is  not- 
liable  for  the  debts  of  the  husband  incurred  before  marriage.  The  same  law  is 
applicable  to  the  husband.  Money  deposited  in  bank  by  a  married  woman  is  free 
from  the  claims  of  husbands  or  their  creditors. 

' '  Under  the  revenue  laws  of  Tennessee,  all  property  owned  in  the  State,  ex- 
cepting $1,000  worth  of  personalty  belonging  to  the  heads  of  families,  is  subject 
to  taxation  for  State  and  county  purposes.  The  tax  on  property  levied  by 
the  State  is  forty  cents  on  the  $100  worth,  ten  cents  of  which  shall  be  for  school 
purposes.  Merchants  pay  ad  valorem  and  privilege  taxes,  amounting  to  seventy 
cents  on  the  $100  worth,  ten  cents  of  which  is  for  free  schools.  Taxes  are  also 


60  HISTORICAL  GUIDK  TO  CHATTANOOGA 

levied  upon  a  great  number  of  privileges  and  upon  polls,  the  poll-tax  being 
applied  to  school  purposes.  The  county  courts  are  authorized  to  levy  taxes  for 
general  county  purposes  not  to  exceed  the  State  tax." 

Suits  can  be  brought  before  a  justice  of  the  peace  up  to  $500.     Six  per  cent 
is  the  legal  interest.    If  "  usury"  is  proven,  the  entire  interest  is  forfeited. 


HISTOKIC  POINTS. 
The  stranger,  especially  if  once  a  soldier,  will  find  the  following  quite  useful : 


PLACES  TO  VISIT. 

HOW  TO  REACH  THEM. 

WHERE  TO  GET  ON. 

FARE. 

Battle  Above  the  Clouds 

(/'liirkiiniHiiga 

Incline  and  Broad  Gauge  R'ys. 
Chatta.,  Rome  &  Col.  Railway. 
Hacks  and  on  foot  

Horse  Cars  and  U.  P.  Depot 
Central  Station  

0.25 
0.25 

* 

o.as 

« 

0.05 
0.25 
0.25 
0.05 
0.05 
0.05 
0.25 
0.25 

nmfrclrratr  Cemetery  .. 

Chatta.,  Rome  &  Col.  Railway. 
Hacks  and  on  foot    

Central  Station  

<  'utntTon  Hill  

East  Lake                .  .  . 

Nuby  Street  Depot 

Lookout  Mountain  

Broad  Gauge  Railway  

Union  Passenger  Depot  — 
Horse  Care  and  Union  R'y  . 
From  Broad  Street  out  
Nuby  Street  Depot  

Lookout  Mountain  

Missionary  Ri<1ge   

Incline  and  Nar.  Gauge  R'ys.  .  . 
Klectric  Railway  

National  Cemetery  

Union  Railway  

Orchard  Knob  

Union  Railway  

Nuby  Street  Depot  

Sherman  Heights  

East  Tenn.,  Va.  &  Ga.  Railway. 
Incline  and  Nar.  Gauge  R'ys.. 

Union  Passenger  Depot  — 
Horse  Cars  and  Union  R'y. 

Sunset  Rock  

*Makc  contracts  with  hackmen.    Usual  charge,  one  dollar  an  hour. 


LANDMARKS  OF  WAR  TIMES. 

Headquarters  Gen.  Rosecrans.    Now  316  "Walnut  street. 
Headquarters  Gen.  Bragg.     "Brabson  House,"  now  407  B.  Fifth. 
Headquarters  Grant,  Thomas,  Sherman.    Now  110  Walnut  street. 
Headquarters  Gen.  D.  H.  Hill.    Now  603  Pine  street. 
Headquarters  Gen.  Brannan.     8.  E.  cor.  Third  and  Walnut  streets. 
Old  War  Prison  (both  armies).     S.  W.  cor.  Fourth  and  Market. 
Fort  Wood.     East  City;  rapidly  being  covered  with  dwellings. 
Fort  Negley.     Rear  of  Stan  ton  House;  houses  going  up  there. 
Fort  Sherman,  then  "Brabson  Hill."    Fifth  and  Lindsay  t-treets. 
Fort  Cameron.     Traces  of  fort  and  magazine  still  on  Cameron  Hill. 
Signal  Point.     Walden's  Ridge,  southern  projection. 
Signal  Rock.     Lookout  Mountain,  near  to  "Point." 
Crutchfield  House.     Read  House  built  on  site. 
Planters  Hotel.     Wisdom  House  built  on  site. 
American  Hotel.    Bottling  house,  826  Broad  street. 
Kaylor  Hall.    Through  alley  between  819  aud  821  Market  street. 


AND  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN.  67 


EVENTS  OF  i88g. 


This  edition  of  5,000  copies  of  the  "Guide  to  Chattanooga"  goes  to  press 
July  1,  1889,  while  preparations  are  being  made  to  welcome — 

1.    THE  NATIONAL  EDUCATIONAL  ASSOCIATION. 

This  Association,  composed  of  the  Educators  of  the  United  States,  will  assem- 
ble in  Nashville,  Tenn.,  on  July  16,  and  remain  in  session  daring  three  days. 
They  will  coiue  to  Chattanooga  as  excursionists,  the  Nashville  <fc  Chattanooga 
Kailroad  running  special  trains  at  very  low  rates. 

Twenty-eight  committees  have  been  organized  to  escort  those  teachers  to  his- 
toric points  in  the  environs,  and  to  make  them  feel  that  Chattanooga  is  honored 
by  their  visit.  Beyond  doubt,  the  warm  weather  and  the  crowded  condition  of 
cars  and  hostelries  will  cause  some  to  murmur,  even  in  the  midst  of  our  sublime 
scenery,  but  ninety  per  centum  of  those  devoted  men  and  charming  women  will 
return  to  their  homes,  all  over  the  Union,  pleased  and  edified  by  their  visit  to 
our  City  of  the  Mountains.  They  will  know  us  better,  and,  may  we  not  hope, 
will  like  us  the  better  for  their  seeing  us  in  the  flesh.  "Will  it  be  too  much  to 
prophesy  that  these  teachers  will  say  to  their  students : 

"If  these  Southrons  do  not  truly  love  us, 
And  err  in  ignorance  and  not  in  cunning, 
Then  we  have  no  judgment  of  honest  faces." 

In  the  native  language  of  his  own  green  Isle  of  the  .Ocean  the  writer  of  these 
lines  says  in  true  heartiness,  Cead  mille  falthe! 

2.    THE  SOCIETY  OF  THE  ARMY  OF  THE  CUMBERLAND. 

This  Society  visits  us  again  this  year,  on  "Chickamauga  Days,"  September 
19,  20.  They  came  to  us  once  before,  in  1881,  the  history  of  which  visit  is  given 
elsewhere  in  this  "Guide." 

The  writer  of  these  lines  organized  a  Society  of  ex- Confederates  to  greet  those 
gallant  visitors  in  1881,  and  a  "Camp"  of  the  Confederate  Yeterans  will  welcome 
them  just  as  heartily  next  September. 

Every  arrangement  is  being  made  for  the  comfort  and  entertainment  of  the 
Veterans  who  fought  on  both  sides  at  Chickamauga  and  at  Missionary  Kidge. 
At  no  point  in  the  Union  could  this  reunion  and  commingling  be  as  thorough, 
hearty,  and  sincere  as  at  Chattanooga.  Here  partisans  forget  their  folly,  and 
bigots  deny  their  former  narrowness  with  shamefacedness.  In  Chattanooga  our 
chiefest  boast  is,  WE  ARE  AMERICAN  CITIZENS ! 

Gentlemen  of  the  Society  of  the  Army  of  the  Cumberland,  and  of  the  various 
Confederate  Associations,  we  greet  thee.  Silver  and  gold  have  we  little,  but  we 
have  hearts  that  are  big,  and  a  welcome  that  ever  smiles.  Chattanooga  boasts 
as  liberal,  active,  hospitable,  and  unselfish  a  population  as  any  town  on  the 
American  continent.  Gladly  do  we  welcome  all  good  people  from  every  section 
of  the  civilized  globe  who  come  to  our  city  to  make  an  honest  living,  and  acquire 
a  fortune  by  honorable  means.  If  you  like  us,  cast  your  lot  in  with  us,  and 
grow  old,  rich  and  happy  with  the  rest  of  us !  And,  in  the  spirit  of  Shakspeare's 
Simonides,  "  To  say  YOU  are  welcome  would  be  superfluous." 


68  HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  CHATTANOOGA 


IMPORTANT  INFORMATION. 


Readers  of  this  Guide  will  file  it  away  for  reference  because  of  the  informa- 
tion it  contains. 

LEGAL   HOLIDAYS. 

NBW  YEAR'S  DAY— January  1st  is  a  legal  holiday  in  all  the  States  except 
Arkansas,  Delaware,  Massachusetts,  New  Hampshire  and  Rhode  Island. 

WASHINGTON'S  BIRTHDAY — February  22d  is  a  legal  holiday  in  all  the  States 
but  Arkansas,  Florida,  Illinois,  Indiana,  Iowa,  Kansas,  Mississippi,  Oregon  and 
Tennessee. 

INDEPENDENCE  DAY— July  4th  is  a  legal  holiday  in  all  the  States  and  Terri- 
tories. 

CHRISTMAS  DAY — December  25  is  a  legal  holiday  in  all  the  States  and  Terri- 
tories. 

STATUTE   OP  LIMITATIONS. 

In  Tennessee,  actions  must  be  brought  within  years  as  follows! 
For  assault,  slander,  injuries,  etc.,  within  one  year. 
For  open  accounts,  within  six  years. 
For  promissory  notes,  within  six  years. 
For  revival  of  judgments,  within  twenty  years. 

TAX  ON  COMMERCIAL  TEAVELEES. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  places  and  amount  of  taxation  on  commercial  trav- 
elers: Alabama,  $15.50  per  year;  Arizona,  $200  per  year;  Beaufort,  S.  C.,  $10 
per  visit;  Bennettsville,  S.  C.,  $1  per  visit;  Batesburg,  S.  0.,  75  cents  per  day; 
Charleston,  S.  C.,  $10  per  month;"  Cumberland,  Md.,  $1  per  day;  Delaware,  $25 
per  year;  Deadwood,  D.  T.,  $5  per  week;  Darlington,  S.  C.,  $1;  East  St.  Louis, 
$2  per  day;  Blkton,  Md.,  per  cent  on  stock  carried;  Florida,  $25  per  year;  Hart- 
well,  Ga.,  $5  per  trip;  Johnston,  S.  C.,  50  cents  per  day;  Lewistown,  Idaho,  $5 
per  trip;  Montana,  $100  per  year  for  each  county;  Memphis,  Term.,  $10  per 
week  or  $25  per  month ;  Mobile,  Ala.,  $3  per  day  or  $7  a  week;  Natchez,  Miss., 
25  cents  per  day;  New  Orleans,  La.,  $50  per  year;  Newport,  Ky.,  $1  per  month; 
North  Carolina,  $100  per  year;  Nevada,  $100  per  year;  Orangeburg,  S.  C.,  $2 
per  day;  St.  Matthews,  8.  C.,  $1  per  day;  San  Francisco,  Cal.,  $25  per  quarter; 
Texas,  $35  a  year;  Tucson,  Arizona,  $50  per  quarter;  Tombstone,  Arizona,  $10 
per  day;  Virginia,  $75  per  year;  "Wilmington,  N.  C.,  $3  per  day;  "Washington, 
D.  C.,  $200  per  year;  "Walhalla,  S.  C.,  $1  per  day. 


AND  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN.  69 

SOME  POSTAL  FACTS. 

Post-offices  in  TenneRsee  June  30,  1889 2,102 

Post-offices  in  Tennessee  of  first  class 4 

(1)  Nashville,  salary  of  postmaster $3,400 

(2)  Memphis,        "  "  3,400 

(3)  Chattanooga,  "  "  3,100 

(4)  Knoxville,       "  "  3,000 

RATES  OF  POSTAGE. 

Letters. — Prepaid  by  stamps,  2  cents  each  onnce  or  fraction  thereof  to  all 
parts  of  the  United  States  and  Canada;  forwarded  to  another  post-office  without 
charge  on  request  of  the  person  addressed ;  if  not  called  for,  returned  to  -the 
writer  free,  if  indorsed  with  that  request.  For  registering  letters  the  charge  is 
10  cents  additional.  Drop  letters  at  letter-carrier  offices,  2  cents  per  ounce  or 
fraction  thereof;  at  other  offices,  1  cent  per  ounce  or  fraction  thereof. 

Second  Class  Matter.— Periodicals  issued  at  regular  intervals— at  least  four 
times  a  year — and  having  a  regular  list  of  subscribers,  with  supplement,  sample 
copies,  1  cent  a  pound ;  periodicals,  other  than  weekly,  if  delivered  by  letter- 
carrier,  1  cent  each;  if  over  2  ounces,  2  cents  each.  When  sent  by  other  than 
publishers,  for  4  ounces  or  less,  1  cent. 

Third  Class  Matter  (not  exceeding  4  pounds). — Printed  matter,  books,  proof- 
sheets  (corrected  or  uneorrected),  unsealed  circulars,  inclosed  so  as  to  admit  of 
easy  inspection  without  cutting  cords  or  wrapper,  1  cent  for  each  2  ounces. 

Fourth  Class  Matter. — Not  exceeding  4  pounds,  embracing  merchandise  and 
samples,  excluding  liquids,  poisons,  greasy,  inflammable  or  explosive  articles, 
live  animals,  insects,  etc.,  1  cent  an  ounce.  Postage  to  Canada  and  British 
North  American  States,  2  cents  per  ounce;  must  be  prepaid;  otherwise,  6  cents. 


MATTEKS  OF  BUSINESS. 

PROMISSORY  NOTES. — A  note  dated  on  Sunday  is  void.  A  note  obtained  by 
fraud,  or  from  one  intoxicated,  is  void.  If  a  note  be  lost  or  stolen,  it  does  not 
release  the  maker,  he  must  pay  it.  An  endorser  of  a  note  is  exempt  from  liabil- 
ity, if  not  served  with  notice  of  its  dishonor  within  twenty-four  hours  of  its  non 
payment.  A  note  by  a  minor  is  void.  Notes  bear  interest  only  when  so  stated. 
Principals  are  responsible  for  their  agents.  Bach  individual  in  partnership  is 
responsible  for  the  whole  amount  of  the  debts  of  the  firm. 

LETTERS  OP  RECOMMENDATION  should  be  given  cautiously.  They  should 
be  both  clear  and  candid.  If  a  party  is  not  worthy  of  a  commendation,  do  not 
seem  to  commend  by  ambiguous  phrases.  A  party  may  be  commended  for  one 
quality,  and  not  for  others.  Say  what  you  mean  or  say  nothing. 


70 


HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  CHATTANOOGA 


FOREIGN   CITIES. 

The  following  tables  will  be  valuable  to  thousands  who  keep  this  Guide  to 
Chattanooga  convenient  for  reference.  Postage  given  is  for  letters  weighing 
half  an  ounce  or  less.  Mileage  is  via  New  York. 

DISTANCES  FROM  CHATTANOOGA 


To 

00 

• 

1 

Days  in 
Transit. 

CD 

I 

CO 

g 

To 

00 

£ 

3 

c  4J 
'™'SS 

i>§ 

«£ 

a> 

bC 

i 

00 

O 

PL, 

Alexandria      .... 

6  850 

16 

5 

Gibraltar  ....... 

5  850 

15 

5 

Antwerp 

4  700 

13 

5 

Glasgow  ........ 

4  070 

12 

5 

Aspiu  wall  ....... 

3  005 

10 

5 

Hague  

4  645 

12 

5 

Athens  ....  ...... 

6  380 

16 

5 

Havana  .. 

2,100 

5 

5 

Barbiwloes  .  ... 

2  840 

10 

5 

Havre  .  .  .... 

4,630 

10 

5 

Berlin  

5  085 

12 

5 

London  

4,405 

10 

5 

Bombay  

10465 

29 

5 

Mexico  City  

2,036 

5 

5 

Bordeaux  ...  

5  082 

12 

5 

Paris  

4  700 

10 

5 

Bremen  

5  035 

12 

5 

Rome  

5  704 

13 

5 

Brussells 

4  670 

12 

5 

'Shanghai  

10  700 

36 

5 

Buenos  Ay  res  

8,725 

4 

5 

Suez  

7,000 

17 

5 

Cape  Town 

11  940 

30 

15 

Vera  Cruz  . 

3  200 

13 

5 

Calcutta  

It  815 

30 

5 

Venice  

5  450 

14 

5 

Constantinople  ... 

6510 

16 

5 

Vienna  

5  420 

12 

5 

Dublin  

4  010 

9 

5 

'Valparaiso.   ... 

6  600 

20 

5 

Frankfort  

4,950 

12 

5 

'Yokohama  

9,400 

28 

5 

Geneva  

5,105 

12 

5 

Zurich  

5  150 

13 

5 

*Via  Sau  Francisco. 


DISTANCES  FROM  CHATTANOOGA 


To 

Miles. 

Fare. 

To 

Miles. 

Fare. 

Atlanta,  Ga.  

138 

$  3  00 

Philadelphia,  Pa 

763 

$20  50 

Baltimore,  Md.......... 

665 

17  70 

Pittsburgh   Pa 

648 

19  15 

Boston,  Muss.  ...... 

1070 

27  50 

Richmond    Va 

592 

15  °5 

Cincinnati,  Obio  .. 

335 

9  75 

San  Francisco    Cal 

2736 

72  50 

Chicago,  111  

599 

17  00 

St  Louis  Mo 

468 

14  00 

Indianapolis,  Ind  

445 

12  85 

St.  Paul,  Minn 

970 

27  75 

Louisville,  Ky  

336 

9  10 

Washington   D  C 

625 

16  50 

Memphis,  Tenn  

310 

9  30 

Hamilton  Canada 

835 

23  20 

Nashville,  Tenn  

151 

4  55 

Montreal    Canada 

1211 

30  60 

New  Orleans,  La  

491 

14  75 

Toronto,  Canada 

875 

24  25 

New  York,  N.  Y  

8.r>3 

23  00 

Quebec,  Canada 

1383 

32  60 

Omaha,  Neb  .  .... 

882 

25  50 

Ottawa  Canada 

1058 

29  50 

LETTERS  OF  FRIENDSHIP  should  receive  more  care  and  thought  than  is  gen- 
erally accorded  them.  They  should  be  answered  promptly,  and  good  taste 
should  dictate  the  measure  of  freedom  or  formality  to  be  observed  in  them. 


AND  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN. 


HEALTH. 


71 


SUMMER  COMPLAINTS.— In  addition  to  ordinary  prudence  in  diet  and  drink, 
especial  care  should  be  taken  as  to  the  quality  of  drinking  water  used.  If  not 
known  to  be  absolutely  pure,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  aromatic  sulphuric  acid  (elixir 
of  vitriol)  to  one  quart  of  water.  Epidemics  of  cholera  have  been  arrested,  when 
every  other  means  failed,  by  using  water  thus  ascidulated.  It  may  be  flavored 
with  lemons  and  sweetened.  There  is  good  reason  for  believing  that  the  cholera 
poison  is  absolutely  destroyed  by  mineral  acids.  It  would  be  well,  therefore,  to 
confine  the  drink  exclusively  to  this  mineral-acid  lemonade  so  long  as  there  is 
any  danger  of  cholera.  No  other  single  precaution  is  of  so  much  importance  as 
this. 

CONTAGIOUS  DISEASES. — It  will  often  relieve  a  mother's  anxiety  to  know  how 
long  after  a  child  has  been  exposed  to  a  contagious  disease  that  there  is  danger 
the  disease  has  been  contracted.  The  following  table  gives  the  period  of  incuba- 
tion— or  anxious  period — and  other  information  concerning  the  more  important 
diseases: 


Disease. 

Symptoms 
usually 
appear 

Anxious 
period 
ranges  from 

Patient  Is  Infectious 

Chicken-pox  

0 

n  14th  d 
2d 
14th 
19th 
14th 
4th 
12th 
21st 
14th 

iy 

10-18  da 
2-5 
10-14 
16-24 
12-20 
1-  7 
1-14 
1-28 
7-14 

ys. 

Until  all  scabs  have  fallen  off. 
14  days  after  disappearance  of  membrane 
*Until  scaling  and  cough  have  ceased. 
14  days  from  commencement. 
10  to  14  days  from  commencement. 
Until  all  scaling  has  ceased. 
Until  all  scabs  have  fallen  off. 
Until  diarrhoea  ceases. 
fSix  weeks  from  beginning  to  whoop. 

Diphtheria  

Measles  

Mumps  

Rotheln    

Scarlet  Fever  

Small-pox  

Typhoid  Fever  

Whooping-cough  — 

*In  measles  the  patient  is  infectious  three  days  before  the  eruption  appears, 
fin  whooping-cough  the  patient  is  infectious  during  the  primary  cough,  which  may  be 
three  weeks  before  the  whooping  begins. 

BURNS  AND  SCALDS. — Dust  the  parts  with  bicarbonate  of  soda,  or  wet  with 
water  in  which  as  much  of  the  soda  has  been  placed  as  can  be  dissolved.  When 
the  burns  are  so  severe  that  the  skin  is  broken  and  blisters  raised,  open  the  blis- 
ters at  one  side  and  swathe  the  parts  with  soft  linen  anointed  with  simple  cerate 
or  saturated  with  sweet  oil,  castor  oil  or  equal  parts  of  linseed  oil  and  lime  watere 
Burns  from  acids  should  be  well  washed  with  water.  Burns  from  caustic  alkalies 
should  be  well  washed  with  vinegar  and  water.  When  a  person's  clothing  is  on 
fire  he  should  quickly  lie  down  and  be  wrapped  in  carpet  or  something  else  that 
will  smother  the  flame. 

SUNSTROKE. — Treat  this  by  removing  the  clothing,  applying  ice  to  the  head 
and  arm -pits  until  the  high  temperature  is  lowered  and  consciousness  returns, 
when  it  should  be  discontinued  until  a  rising  temperature  again  calls  for  it.  A 
cold  bath  of  iced  water  may  be  very  beneficial. 

HKMORRHAGE  FROM  THE  NOSE  may  be  stopped  generally  by  snuffing  up  the 
nose  salt  and  water,  alum  and  water,  or  vinegar,  or  by  applying  ice  between  the 
shoulders,  or  at  the  back  of  the  neck.  Keep  head  raised. 


72  HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  CHATTANOOGA 


CHATTANOOGA  AS  A  HOME. 


I  cannot  better  close  this  little  pamphlet  than  with  a  candid  statement  of  a 
few  of  the  surrouudings  of  Chattanooga  as  a  place  of  residence: 

1.  We  have  a  balmy  climate,  not  too  hot  in  summer  nor  too  cold  in  winter. 
Thermometer  rarely  rises  above  90°  or  descends  to  0°.     Every  month  is  pleas- 
ant except  August. 

2.  "We  have  mountain  tops  and  valleys  quickly  reached  by  steam  and  electric 
transportation.    These  make  removal  to  summer  resorts  unnecessary,  and  pro- 
vide dry,  healthful  homes  for  consumptives. 

3.  We  have  good  water,  good  sewerage,  good  schools,  good  fire  department, 
good  system  of  police,  and  a  very  energetic,  pushing,  reasonably  moral  popula- 
tion. 

4.  Chattanooga  is  the  terminus  of  seven  trunk  lines  of  railway ;  has  a  belt 
system  that  connects  all  the  railways  with  the  factories,  and  reaches  all  the 
valley  suburbs;  has  lines  of  railway  to  the  summits  of  Lookout  Mountain  and 
Missionary  Ridge,  and  has  twenty-five  miles  of  horse  car  railway. 

5.  Has  over  one  hundred  manufactories  in  successful  operation,  being  con- 
venient to  iron,  coal  and  timber. 

6.  Chattanooga  has  increased  in  population  from  6,000  in  1870  to  50,000  iu 
1889.     The  increase  has  been  remarkable  during  the  past  three  years.     In  1886 
we  had  29,000;  in  1889  we  have  50,000. 

7.  The  Tennessee  will  be  navigable  from  its  mouth  to  Chattanooga  by  Decem- 
ber 25,  1889,  thus  connecting  the  city  by  water  with  the  Mississippi,  the  Ohio 
and  the  Cumberland.     Then  Chattanooga  will  have  water  connection  with  New 
Orleans,  St.  Louis,  St.   Paul,  Cincinnati,  Pittsburg  and  hundreds  of  smaller 
places. 

8.  We  have  good  streets,  the  main  ones  laid  with  asphalt,  Belgian  blocks  and 
creosoted  bricks.     They  are  wide  and  straight. 

9.  We  have  successful  electric  light  plants,  both  arc  and  incandescent,  and 
our  main  streets  are  lighted  by  electricity. 

10.  We  have  large  and  handsome  church  edifices,  and  enough  of  them  to  sat- 
isfy the  religious  peculiarities  of  all  our  citizens. 

11.  We  have  all  of  the  popular  secret  societies,  in  full  operation.    All  are 
reported  in  a  prosperous  condition. 

12.  Our  population  is  made  up  of  Northerners  and  Southerners,  the  former 
chiefly  manufacturers,  the  latter  wholesale  and  retail  -merchants.     They  are 
about  equal  in  number,  energy,  enterprise  and  integrity. 

These  are  the  inducements,  gentle  reader,  to  cast  in  your  lot  with  us.  We 
do  not  deal  in  adjectives  or  expletives,  merely  recite  the  unadorned  facts.  To 
be  sure,  all  people  are  not  equally  well  pleased  with  us,  but  it  is  a  fact  that 
ninety  per  centum  of  those  who  in  the  past  removed  from  Chattanooga  in  the 
hope  of  bettering  their  condition  have  returned'  to  us. 

Come  and  see  for  yourself.  Make  due  allowance  for  home  attachments  and 
natural  prejudices.  .  Everything  you  see  will  not  comport  with  your  ideas,  no 
doubt,  but,  in  the  aggregate,  you  will  find  Chattanooga  to  be  one  of  the  best 
places  to  live  in  you  have  visited  in  any  part  of  the  Union. 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 
Los  Angeles 

This  book  is  DUE  on  the  last  date  stamped  below. 

nL^  -'  i  n  i. 


itwnivB 


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UNIVERSITY  of  CALIFORNIA 

AT 
LOS  ANGELES 

T  TRRAttV 


3   1158  001 


and 
mountain. 


UC  SOUTHERN  REGIONAL  LIBRARY  FA( 


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